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Wednesday, May 28, 2014

The 5 Ingredient Skincare Routine

We're talking the bare bones of skincare today, my dears. You know how sometimes we get so wrapped up in the newest and most innovative skincare products on the market that we completely forget about the simplest solution? This minimalist 5 element routine is just a rough guide to remind us all of the natural goodness of basic ingredients - because sometimes we don't have to shell out the big bucks for a product to work effectively, and we don't need the extra bells and whistles to get things done.
A little disclaimer before we proceed: obviously not every ingredient works the same for every skin type, without even getting into allergies. More importantly, this skincare routine will not be the most effective in treating specific skin concerns/ conditions, like pigmentation, fine lines & wrinkles, acne, eczema - but it may still help if you include some targeted treatments containing active ingredients. Please view it as something akin to a scaffolding you can then build upon. As an example, for my skin concerns (acne-prone + hyperpigmentation marks) I'd supplement this routine with a pigmentation-fighting serum, an AHA/BHA exfoliant, and sunscreen for daytime. Hope that clears the confusion - I am not abandoning my regular skincare, just showing another option!
1. Cleansing & Make-up Removal: Pure Virgin Coconut Oil (I'm using Dr. Bronner's Magic Fresh Pressed Unrefined Coconut Oil, $11.33 for 14 fl oz)
You know the cleansing balms I've been raving about for some time now? Truth is, coconut oil is just as effective in removing my make-up and cleansing the skin, at a fraction of the price. The texture is very similar to most natural oil-based cleansing balms: it's a soft balm at room temperature, which then melts into a deliciously sweet-scented oil when massaged onto the skin. Coconut oil is slightly heavy and some sources classify it as comedogenic (pore clogging), so make sure to really remove the last traces of oil residue from your skin with a warm washcloth. This is also the reason why I'm not recommending it as a facial oil, but it's amazing for moisturizing your body and hair. For convenience reasons, I scoop out some of the oil from my big jar and store in a smaller, more shallow repurposed jar in my bathroom. I keep the big jar in the kitchen to make awesome homemade granola with!
Other options: You could absolutely use other natural oils for this step, or even a blend of oils with castor oil, as recommended in the Oil Cleansing Method (OCM). I just find coconut oil easier to handle, and I love the smell :)
2. Toning: Hydrosols/ Flower Waters (I'm using Mountain Rose Herbs Rose Hydrosol, $7.25 for 3 oz)
I've spoken about the benefits of rose hydrosol before (here), but this by-product of essential oil production works great to refresh and hydrate the skin, with the added bonus of beautiful floral fragrance. Other hydrosols are fantastic as well, and you can tailor them to your own needs: calendula soothes irritated skin, cucumber cools down rashes, lemon verbena acts as an astringent - so many different ones to try!
Other options: If your skin is very sensitive/ you're allergic to essential oils, you could just use a thermal spring water spray, like the ones offered by French pharmacy brands (Avene, Vichy, La Roche Posay). Or you could attempt a DIY herbal infusion with green tea or comfrey - just make sure to store it in the fridge and replace every couple weeks.
3. Moisturizing: Skin type-specific natural carrier oil (I'm using Mountain Rose Herbs 100% Pure Organic Hazelnut Oil, $5.25 for 8 oz)
In the moisturizer step, I like to use a light, easily absorbed oil: I'm currently experimenting with hazelnut oil, which is supposed to have astringent & skin-refining properties, but in the past I've also liked jojoba, tamanu and argan oils. For better absorption, I recommend pressing the oil into damp skin, meaning shortly after you spray it with your toner of choice - this also helps the oil to seal in the moisture from the spray.
Other options: As I mentioned above, any natural oil that you like will work for this step. If you're curious about which carrier oils work best for specific skin types, there's lots of information available online - but I found this guide from Christine very helpful to start with.

4 & 5. Masks/Spot Treatments/Cleanser Alternatives: Powder Clay & Raw Honey (I'm using Wedderspoon Organic 100% Raw Manuka Honey Active 16+ , $40.86 for 17.6 oz,  and Aztec Secret Indian Healing 100% Bentonite Clay, previously reviewed here, $4.99 for 1lb).
Clay and honey are two extras that work wonders incorporated into any skincare routine, be it natural or not. Manuka honey (or any raw honey) can be used straight as a cleanser, facial mask, spot treatment or intensive lip balm, because it soothes and moisturizes the skin (honey is a natural humectant) while also providing some antibacterial action. As a cleanser, I find that it works best in the morning, or as a second cleanse in the evening to follow up the coconut oil.
Powder clay obviously has to be mixed with something before usage: water is the easiest, but you could also use the hydrosol from the toning step, or the carrier oil from the moisturizer step, or honey, or the combination of all of them - for whatever you're trying to achieve. When blended with a little bit of water, clay can either work as an oil-reducing facial cleanser, or a pore-tightening mask (also great for just dabbing on active breakouts); adding oils or honey will make it less drying while still providing some detoxifying action. The mixing possibilities are endless!
Other options: Manuka honey is unfortunately very expensive, but any natural raw honey will work - I like the Y.S. Eco Bee Farms US Grade A Raw Honey ($6.29 for 22 oz) that I also use for cooking. There's also a variety of different clay powders available on the market, with different properties for different skintypes: NOW Foods Solutions offers jars of Moroccan Red Clay Powder and European (Green) Clay Powder ($4.49 for 6 oz each).

I hope you found this very basic guide to natural skincare ingredients helpful - I've tried to list things which are quite easily accessible and should work for a variety of skin types. In terms of reliable websites to shop for natural products, Vitacost (click for referral link and $10 off) is my favorite: the prices are much lower than local health stores like Whole Foods, and the selection is much wider as well. For more difficult to find natural ingredients, Mountain Rose Herbs is pretty unbeatable, but the shipping tends to be on the expensive side.

Do you use any natural ingredients in your skincare routine? What are your favorites?

22 comments:

  1. This is a minimalist routine even I could get behind! I've been looking into hydrosols as mid-day refreshers for humid Asian summer trips -- this one doesn't leave any kind of residue, right?

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    1. Hiiiii Kate :) I've only tried this one from Mountain Rose Herbs and it feels very lightweight and non-sticky on the skin, although I know that some 'rosewater' sprays contain other ingredients as well - good idea to read the ingredients list carefully. This one also smells like sweet rose petals, not too much of the rose geranium notes!

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  2. Hey Monika, what a great post! I've been thinking about trying coconut oil for my hair for ages! I heard Manuka honey can also be used to cleanse. I've got to pay the local organic store a visit soon!

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    1. Hi Sunny, I've just been using my manuka honey as a morning cleanser for the past few days and my skin is loving it! I find it's good to know what simple ingredients can do for our skin, especially for the times when it freaks out completely and needs to be nursed back to health :)

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  3. I also like coconut oil, my skin has improved a lot since I cut down to minimalistic ingredients. from time to time I am also using rose water. my skin seems to love oils in general and I switch from coconut, argan, rose and almond oil. loving the rms beauty oil as well. / Claire xxx

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  4. I use Rosehip oil in my routine as a moisturiser, I love it as it's a lightweight dry oil that you can use all over your face. Haven't tried cleansing with oils although coconut oil sounds interesting! Xx

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    1. I really want to try rosehip oil one day - but I've heard from some folks it can clog pores. Have you found that to be the case? Does it help with scarring and pigmentation? If you decide to try coconut oil, you'll fall in love with the scent!

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  5. i loved this post coming right after my doubt about buying a murad cream, it centers the problem. most of the time natural products are in fact more effective and rich and ..amazing than the elaborated and expensive "chemical" ones, right? it's difficult to find a brand that really integrates this two aspects - in fact i dont think i really found one...! so what do you think, would you suggest a "murad" or a natural product? is that i still crave both! i need more money, lol. sorry, thanks again.
    eli
    x

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    1. Hi Eli, I'm glad you found this post helpful! Murad products, or store-bought, ready to use skincare is definitely more cosmetically elegant than simple natural ingredients. For example, when using coconut oil as a cleanser, it requires some elbow grease to get all of it off with a washcloth, whereas a ready-made cleanser rinses off more easily. Natural oils are fantastic for the skin, but they're definitely heavier than most moisturizers, and can leave a bit of a sheen on the skin (but if you find a lightweight one, they absorb within a couple minutes). I haven't tried very many natural skincare brands and so I can't recommend a favorite natural/organic moisturizer - and I don't know your skin type or skin concerns. Hope this explanation helped a little!

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  6. Oh Monika, love this post! Rose water has been a favorite of mine for years, especially in the summer and coconut oil is so amazing (try a half teaspoon in your coffee) but one word of caution, I've read that on dyed hair it can strip the color or alter it slightly. I've used it on mine but a few days before redoing the color just to be safe. :)

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    1. Thanks for the tip, Helene! I've heard about coconut oil stripping the color but completely forgot to talk about in the post - I only have bleached highlights and nothing is taking those bad boys away :D And I'll definitely try it in my coffee one day - does it also work with lattes?

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    2. Coconut oil is the only natural oil that has been scientifically proven to penetrate to the cortex of the hair. Perhaps that is why it can interfere with hair dye. Coconut oil needs to be applied generously and left on the hair for several hours to get the best rate of absorption. Many people leave it on all day or overnight, but I find 4 hours is enough time to strengthen my "virgin" hair, smooth the texture, add body, and give it a pretty lustre. I slather it on 1-2 times a month, pin my hair on top of my head and go about my usual routine. About 4 hours later I wash it out. I have very long hair and so I do have to double wash because it takes a lot of coconut oil to saturate all my hair. The first round is with a generous slurry of shampoo and water to get rid of the majority of the oil. The second wash is my usual routine: shampoo followed by a light de-tangling conditioner. Coconut oil is simply the best deep penetrating conditioner out there but the time required for absorption is an obstacle for many busy people. It's my understanding that Dove is currently working on something that will penetrate to the cortex but won't require the extreme amount of time that coconut oil does.

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    3. Fantastic comment, Eileen, thanks for all the info! As I commented below, many natural ingredients require extra work compared to ready-made stuff, but I think the results are worth it! I'll definitely try out your tips on using coconut oil in my hair and report back - thank you! <3

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  7. I love Dr. Bronner's coconut oil! I've never put it on my face because I'm afraid it will make me break out (and there's no way to know for sure without trying), but I've been mixing it with sugar for a body scrub. It eliminates the need for lotion and makes me smell like an Almond Joy bar, which is always a good thing. It works pretty well as shaving cream, too. Oh god, I'm turning into one of those people who won't shut up about coconut oil...

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    1. Yes, I've used it as a shaving cream as well and it was fantastic! Hahah, my mum always says it's just another fad when I tell her about different natural oils - but you can only be sceptical until you try it for yourself!

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  8. Ouu, I love using coconut oil as a makeup remover! I depot some into a smaller container to use in the washroom too--saves big $$. I tried using it as a facial oil once, and yeah, it's definitely comedogenic. I had several blackheads form real quick, l o l. I recently picked up some Antipodes products, and they've got manuka honey in there too. I wonder how manuka honey straight up fares on my skin though

    (oh god I've been going to Whole Foods so often as of late that place is a palace)
    Vanessa | Citron and Guavaberry ʘ‿ʘ

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  9. One thing I would add to this regimen is yoghurt mask (would yoghurt qualify as natural?) It leaves the skin so smooth due to the natural lactic acid in it. Love everything else you suggested here, I've forgotten about the coconut oil as cleansing balm.

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    1. I used to use the yogurt mask every week, and I loved it! Especially when you take it right out of the fridge and it's so wonderfully cold on your face :)

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  10. The "use honey as face-wash" tip is a total game-changer! I have been using "Neem honey"-it's much less expensive, but considering neem's antiseptic and skin healing properties, i just took a chance. And it works wonders! My skin is much more calm and feels way more plump and hydrated. Plus raw honey is a gentle scrub too :).

    My favorite skin oil is a 1:1 mix of rosehip and sea-buckthorn oils. And then there's Tamanu oil. I switch between these. I add few drops of lavender oils for fragrance (and it also has skin calming properties). I also used Jasmine and Frankincense oils as add-ons once, and I loved that!

    For hair, as an Indian born girl, I grew up with the concept of hair oils. Typically, I apply coconut/jojoba/almond oils when i wake up (an hr. or so before shower) and then wash and condition as usual. For face mask, I just use plain yogurt-it makes a lovely hydroxy-acid mask. For scrub/mask, I use chick-pea flour (available at Whole Foods) and mix with a pinch of turmeric and milk and use as a mask or scrub. My toner typically is rose-water glycerin mix.

    My Grandma used to use saffron infused almond oil as a night-time skin healing potion, and I can see why. Saffron is full of anti-oxidants and carotenoids/natural retinoids.

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    1. Wow, you're using a lot of natural ingredients in your skin and haircare - that's fantastic! I'll have to look into neem honey - I've tried neem oil in the past and absolutely hated the smell, hope the honey doesn't smell like that! I love tamanu oil as well, I actually like its scent, but love adding essential oils as well. I use lavender, tea tree and vetiver the most often.

      I've actually read about the Indian chickpea flour & turmeric mask on a Polish blog, if you can believe it! Apparently, turmeric is great for calming down breakouts. I think I need to try that :) Thank you for all the wonderful tips!

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    2. I don't have much of an issue with the smell of neem oil-but the taste, ahem, is BITTER! And it lingers, forever. Neem is, infact, used as an adjective in Hindi (to describe bitter things/feelings) ;).

      The neem honey is really nice, very sweet and there's no strong smell. I tasted it before i put it on my face.

      Mmmm, vetiver... i love it! Makes me nostalgic, and reminds me of Indian summer... back in the day hand fans made of vetiver grass were really popular. A drizzle of water and you have a perfect, soothing accessory for a hot summer afternoon.

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    3. That's fascinating, I love the ethymology behind neem! Hahah, I don't know - my jar of neem oil smelt like the most pungent garlic & chive mixture :) I'm glad the honey doesn't smell or taste like that - I'll be on the lookout for it!

      The vetiver hand fans sound absolutely dreamy :) My brother is now travelling in India, I should ask him to bring me one!

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