My Skin But Better: Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation Review

The Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation SPF 15 PA++ ($62 for 30 ml/ 1.01 fl oz) is a prime example of my 'save it for later' attitude towards products I'm especially excited about; I've explained it in more detail in my last post here, in case you've missed it. After swatching it in Sephora and promptly falling in love, I was ecstatic to have scored it on Hautelook... back in late 2013. I then tucked it away in a drawer, promising myself to crack the bottle open once I used up 'some' of my older foundations.

I know, pretty bad. I'm looking for a delayed gratification support group as we speak. Anyway, as part of my resolution to enjoy my favoritest things, I finally started playing with the Aqua Foundation this month. Good news: I still love it! Bad news: I hear it's been reformulated - but I haven't tried the new version, so I'm hoping it's still just as good as this old one.

The Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation is packaged in a pretty frosted glass bottle with a controllable pump. I find the design pretty and functional, which is my favorite combo, although I'd be a touch apprehensive to travel with anything glass. I purchased the shade PK-0, which is the lightest pink/ cool-toned shade in the Aqua range (I believe the lightest cool shade for the Aqua Foundation is now called 012. The Moisture Foundation comes in an even lighter 001 shade).

'Created to mimic the optical reflectance of a post facial treatment, the new technically advanced Aqua Foundation series finishes the skin to look brighter and healthier for an ideal natural finish. With radiance in mind, the Aqua Foundation is infused with a RGB powder that enhances the natural tone of the complexion for a brighter and poreless skin texture (from Koh Gen Do's website)'. While normally the cosmetic marketing spiel drives me bonkers, this time the brand hasn't strayed too far from the truth. Brighter (less dull), more radiant and healthier looking skin? Check. Natural, lightweight, skin-like finish? Check. Poreless texture? Check - well, to an extent.

The Aqua Foundation has a thin, liquidy consistency, which makes it very easy to blend into the skin, be it by using fingers, a brush or a sponge. I find that one pump is enough to give my skin light coverage (I have a small face), but you could layer it on for medium coverage as well (two pumps + a buffing brush gives me medium coverage, but I prefer to really push it into the skin with fingers or a beautyblender). The foundation quickly melds into one with my skin, smoothing over enlarged pores, and setting to what I would call a comfortable luminous demi-matte finish. It virtually looks and feels like there's nothing on your face, while brightening, evening out the tone and perfecting the texture of your skin at the same time. Looks like my skin, but (much) better.

In the photo above, I smoothed on one pump with a sponge on top of a small amount of Lancome La Base Pro primer applied just to my T-zone. I did some light concealing on larger marks and blemishes but otherwise left my skin be, no powder, no highlighter. If you look close (you can enlarge the photo by clicking directly on it), you'll see that the appearance of the pores on my forehead, nose and the sides of my nose is definitely diminished, although it doesn't quite disguise the larger ones in the nasolabial fold area - but doesn't pool into them either. The one downside to this foundation is that it does catch on dry flakes slightly; you can see those on my nose and a bit on the forehead. Otherwise though, I'd say my skin looks pretty darn good with this stuff on. Like, better than any other foundation I've tried thus far.

I know I have a fair (har har) number of porcelain complected readers, so I thought a shade comparison with my other pale foundations may be helpful if you're contemplating an online order. I was quite shocked to see how dark PK-0 swatched on my wrist compared to how fair it looks on my face (maybe because my face isn't the same color as my wrist, duh). I will tell you this: it applies a lot lighter on the face, and because it's sheer coverage, you can expect some shade tolerance. In MAC terms, I'd gauge it at about NW10-15. If you're a lot lighter than that, it may be too dark for you - I'm sorry! If you're darker, I'd go a shade (or couple) up; I probably won't be able to wear this shade alone in the late summer/ early fall. For all my fair yellow toned ladies, there are pale warm/ ochre shades in the range as well (113, 123, 143, 213).

L-R: NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer in Chantilly, Revlon Colorstay in Ivory, Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation in PK-0, Face Atelier Ultra Foundation in Porcelain 1, and bonus Tarte Full Coverage Amazonian Clay in Fair Beige

As for longevity, it's currently one of the most long-wearing bases I own. It somehow manages to control the shine on my nose and forehead for about 9 hours; I'd say that some of the oil breaks through towards the end, but looks dewy rather than greasy (mind you, I have very oily skin in these two areas). It doesn't look dry, cakey, uneven or patchy on normal/dry areas of my face. Before removing it for the day, I noticed that the foundation gathered a bit more around the flaky bits, but not enough to be spotted by anyone other than myself, peering closely in the mirror. All in all, I'd say it should suit normal, combination and oily skin the most.

But regardless, do you know the best thing about it? Husband (unprompted!) said I looked well rested while I was wearing the Koh Gen Do Aqua. That seals the deal, folks - the man has spoken. Have you tried the Aqua Foundation? What is your current 'my skin but better' base?