In My Skincare Stash: Overview of Brightening and Exfoliating Masks and Peels

While attempting to use up my considerable stash of samples and minis via my Project the past two months, I've realized I had a lot of nice deluxe samples of masks and peels that were all aimed at brightening the skin. As a fair-skinned person, I struggle with hyperpigmentation all the time: freckles, age spots, post-inflammatory marks from acne and mosquito bites (yeah, that's a new one even for me) - you name it, I've got it. Which is why I've been enjoying treating my skin to a more intense exfoliating session about once a week, and these masks are perfect for a quick at-home treatment.

Starting with an old favorite, and the only full-sized product in this overview: the Dermalogica Gentle Cream Exfoliant ($41 for 2.5 fl. oz - they hiked up the price by at least $5 since the last time I bought it!), which I've talked about a couple times in the past, now sadly all used up and gone from my medicine cabinet. This is a fantastic option for combination and oily skintypes, as it both exfoliates with fruit enzymes, salicylic and lactic acid, but also helps to absorb the oil and minimize the appearance of pores with diatomaceous earth, which gives it a clay-like consistency. There aren't many products that give me immediate, visible results every time I reach for them, but this Gentle Cream Exfoliant really was one of those. If your skin is very sensitive, I'd definitely ask for a sample first, because it's not really that gentle - on my somewhat reactive skin, I'd get a tingle, but no irritation and little redness after application. I'm considering a repurchase.

Speaking of clay-like textures, I had high hopes for this Boscia Bright White Mask ($38 for 2.8 oz), which contains titanium dioxide as well as bentonite and kaolin clays, but it doesn't work for me at all. First off, my bad for not realizing this is a peel-off mask, which is a type I generally dislike partly because of the high alcohol content. It also took me a good 10 minutes to try and peel this mask off, at which point I gave up and just took it off with a warm washcloth. More importantly though, I could not see any brightening effect on my skin at all, and looking at the ingredients' list, I'm really not sure how this is supposed to brighten - there are some plant extracts and peptides in there, but with sporadic usage, I don't know how you'd be able to observe any significant results. I'd give it a pass.

The Elemental Herbology Facial Glow Radiance Peel ($66 for 1.7 fl oz; full size comes in a glass jar) is the only mask in this line-up that uses a combination of manual (jojoba beads) and chemical (mostly papaya enzyme but also glycolic, malic and lactic acids in a low percentage) exfoliants. Radiance Peel also contains vitamins A, C and E, manuka honey and nourishing oils like macadamia, olive and argan. I personally could do without the exfoliating beads, but otherwise, it's a lovely mask I'd recommend for normal to dry skintypes, as the creamy formulation seems to have an added moisturizing effect on the skin. The directions say to leave it on for 4 minutes, but I found that to be too short of a time to notice a result in my skin, so I'd leave it on for 10-15 minutes instead. I also think this one would be good to try if you're particularly sensitive, as I didn't get much of a tingle but still saw improvement in the texture and softness of my skin.

Jumping from one of the gentler options to something more hardcore, I found the Murad Intensive-C Radiance Peel ($55 for 1.7 oz) to be too much for my skin. This creamy mask contains glycolic acid, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, and while I love all of these ingredients, the Intensive-C mask burned my face like nobody's business - the sensation was actually quite similar to the mentholated tingling you'd get from lip plumpers. Yes, I saw noticeable improvement in the texture and clarity of my skin, but using this mask just wasn't pleasant. I'd recommend it to most skintypes with no sensitivity whatsoever, and preferrably after patch-testing a sample. You've been warned.

The popular REN Glycol Lactic Radiance Renewal Mask ($55 for 1.7 oz) also relies primarily on glycolic acid in combination with lactic acid and fruit enzymes (papain from papaya and bromelain from pineapple fruit extracts) in a moisturizing base of grape seed, cranberry seed, and seabuckthorn berry oils. I'll be honest with you - while I think this is a nice exfoliating mask that smells and looks like orange marmalade, I don't know why so many people rave about it over these other options I'm discussing today. My main problem was that this mask went off very quickly after I first opened my sample, becoming separated, grainy and very weird-smelling. I've also found a lot of citrus essential oils in the ingredients' list (bergamot fruit water, orange, mandarin, tangerine and grapefruit oils) and unfortunately, I'm allergic - although fortunately, I didn't come up in a big rash the few times I used it. Why do brightening products always have to smell like oranges, I ask you?

Lastly, we have another natural option: the Enzyme Peel Mask with Vitamin C and Papaya from The Organic Pharmacy ($79 for 40ml). This gel mask contains lactobionic acid (a Polyhydroxy acid, also known as PHA, which some studies have proven to be less irritating but as effective as glycolic acid thanks to its reduced absorption due to larger molecular structure), lactic and salicylic acids, both papaya and pineapple enzymes, and hyaluronic acid. It's a lovely product - slightly tingly on the face but not irritating, and I can definitely see an improvement in the texture, tone and hydration of my skin after usage. This is the first product I've ever tried from The Organic Pharmacy, and I have to say the experience has got me a lot more interested in their skincare range; although sadly, the products are without a doubt on the pricey side.

Speaking of prices, all of the masks I've reviewed for you today seem rather expensive to me now that I'm looking at it. I don't know if my tolerance for prices has shifted recently or what it is, but I don't feel okay spending over $50 on an exfoliating mask - to my knowledge, glycolic and salicylic acids as well as fruit enzymes are not expensive ingredients, so I'm not sure why all of these need to be so pricey. While I loved my Dermalogica Gentle Cream Exfoliant, I'm considering giving a cheaper option a try, and I've been looking at the derma-e Evenly Radiant Overnight Peel with AHAs (glycolic, lactic and malic), which retails for $15-18.75, or the Andalou Naturals Pumpkin Honey Glycolic Mask, which is $11-15, depending where you buy it. If you've tried one of those, please let me know!

Do you use exfoliating masks or peels on a regular basis? What is your favorite weekly exfoliating treatment?