The 5 Ingredient Skincare Routine

We're talking the bare bones of skincare today, my dears. You know how sometimes we get so wrapped up in the newest and most innovative skincare products on the market that we completely forget about the simplest solution? This minimalist 5 element routine is just a rough guide to remind us all of the natural goodness of basic ingredients - because sometimes we don't have to shell out the big bucks for a product to work effectively, and we don't need the extra bells and whistles to get things done.

A little disclaimer before we proceed: obviously not every ingredient works the same for every skin type, without even getting into allergies. More importantly, this skincare routine will not be the most effective in treating specific skin concerns/ conditions, like pigmentation, fine lines & wrinkles, acne, eczema - but it may still help if you include some targeted treatments containing active ingredients. Please view it as something akin to a scaffolding you can then build upon. As an example, for my skin concerns (acne-prone + hyperpigmentation marks) I'd supplement this routine with a pigmentation-fighting serum, an AHA/BHA exfoliant, and sunscreen for daytime. Hope that clears the confusion - I am not abandoning my regular skincare, just showing another option!

1. Cleansing & Make-up Removal: Pure Virgin Coconut Oil (I'm using Dr. Bronner's Magic Fresh Pressed Unrefined Coconut Oil, $11.33 for 14 fl oz)
You know the cleansing balms I've been raving about for some time now? Truth is, coconut oil is just as effective in removing my make-up and cleansing the skin, at a fraction of the price. The texture is very similar to most natural oil-based cleansing balms: it's a soft balm at room temperature, which then melts into a deliciously sweet-scented oil when massaged onto the skin. Coconut oil is slightly heavy and some sources classify it as comedogenic (pore clogging), so make sure to really remove the last traces of oil residue from your skin with a warm washcloth. This is also the reason why I'm not recommending it as a facial oil, but it's amazing for moisturizing your body and hair. For convenience reasons, I scoop out some of the oil from my big jar and store in a smaller, more shallow repurposed jar in my bathroom. I keep the big jar in the kitchen to make awesome homemade granola with!
Other options: You could absolutely use other natural oils for this step, or even a blend of oils with castor oil, as recommended in the Oil Cleansing Method (OCM). I just find coconut oil easier to handle, and I love the smell :)

2. Toning: Hydrosols/ Flower Waters (I'm using Mountain Rose Herbs Rose Hydrosol, $7.25 for 3 oz)
I've spoken about the benefits of rose hydrosol before (here), but this by-product of essential oil production works great to refresh and hydrate the skin, with the added bonus of beautiful floral fragrance. Other hydrosols are fantastic as well, and you can tailor them to your own needs: calendula soothes irritated skin, cucumber cools down rashes, lemon verbena acts as an astringent - so many different ones to try!
Other options: If your skin is very sensitive/ you're allergic to essential oils, you could just use a thermal spring water spray, like the ones offered by French pharmacy brands (Avene, Vichy, La Roche Posay). Or you could attempt a DIY herbal infusion with green tea or comfrey - just make sure to store it in the fridge and replace every couple weeks.

3. Moisturizing: Skin type-specific natural carrier oil (I'm using Mountain Rose Herbs 100% Pure Organic Hazelnut Oil, $5.25 for 8 oz)
In the moisturizer step, I like to use a light, easily absorbed oil: I'm currently experimenting with hazelnut oil, which is supposed to have astringent & skin-refining properties, but in the past I've also liked jojoba, tamanu and argan oils. For better absorption, I recommend pressing the oil into damp skin, meaning shortly after you spray it with your toner of choice - this also helps the oil to seal in the moisture from the spray.
Other options: As I mentioned above, any natural oil that you like will work for this step. If you're curious about which carrier oils work best for specific skin types, there's lots of information available online - but I found this guide from Christine very helpful to start with.

4 & 5. Masks/Spot Treatments/Cleanser Alternatives: Powder Clay & Raw Honey (I'm using Wedderspoon Organic 100% Raw Manuka Honey Active 16+ , $40.86 for 17.6 oz,  and Aztec Secret Indian Healing 100% Bentonite Clay, previously reviewed here, $4.99 for 1lb).
Clay and honey are two extras that work wonders incorporated into any skincare routine, be it natural or not. Manuka honey (or any raw honey) can be used straight as a cleanser, facial mask, spot treatment or intensive lip balm, because it soothes and moisturizes the skin (honey is a natural humectant) while also providing some antibacterial action. As a cleanser, I find that it works best in the morning, or as a second cleanse in the evening to follow up the coconut oil.

Powder clay obviously has to be mixed with something before usage: water is the easiest, but you could also use the hydrosol from the toning step, or the carrier oil from the moisturizer step, or honey, or the combination of all of them - for whatever you're trying to achieve. When blended with a little bit of water, clay can either work as an oil-reducing facial cleanser, or a pore-tightening mask (also great for just dabbing on active breakouts); adding oils or honey will make it less drying while still providing some detoxifying action. The mixing possibilities are endless!
Other options: Manuka honey is unfortunately very expensive, but any natural raw honey will work - I like the Y.S. Eco Bee Farms US Grade A Raw Honey ($6.29 for 22 oz) that I also use for cooking. There's also a variety of different clay powders available on the market, with different properties for different skintypes: NOW Foods Solutions offers jars of Moroccan Red Clay Powder and European (Green) Clay Powder ($4.49 for 6 oz each).

I hope you found this very basic guide to natural skincare ingredients helpful - I've tried to list things which are quite easily accessible and should work for a variety of skin types. In terms of reliable websites to shop for natural products, Vitacost (click for referral link and $10 off) is my favorite: the prices are much lower than local health stores like Whole Foods, and the selection is much wider as well. For more difficult to find natural ingredients, Mountain Rose Herbs is pretty unbeatable, but the shipping tends to be on the expensive side.

Do you use any natural ingredients in your skincare routine? What are your favorites?

The Battle of Chemical Exfoliants: AHAs vs BHAs

Ever since I'd started watching Dr. Neal Schultz's DermTV YouTube channel, I've vowed to replace all my manual/physical exfoliating products with a good chemical exfoliant I could use regularly. Dr. Schultz and many other dermatologists/ skincare experts seem to agree that while physical exfoliators (scrubs containing granules/ particles such as walnut or apricot shells, silica crystals and so on) are quite irritating to the skin, causing teeny tiny tears in its surface, chemical exfoliants (products containing fruit acids/enzymes/retinoids) provide all benefits of exfoliating such as removal of dead skin cells, diminishing the hyperpigmentation and stimulating collagen production, without causing any damage.

I will say that this makes quite a bit of sense to me, plus, having more acne-prone skin, I was often recommended to use products containing some sort of chemical exfoliating agent. Which is why I purchased these two very different chemical exfoliants: M.D. Forte Glycare II For Oily Skin ($19-24 for 2 oz./60ml) and Paula's Choice 2% BHA Gel For All Skin Types (now called Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Gel Exfoliant, $18.95 for 3.3. oz./100ml).

Let's talk about M.D. Forte Glycare II first. It's a clear liquid that contains mostly water, alcohol, glycolic acid and eucalyptus oil, and that should have been my first warning sign; both alcohol and essential oils are known irritants, so this not only stings, but also stinks. Secondly, Glycare II supposedly contains 20% glycolic acid (alpha hydroxy acid), which is one of the highest concentrations I've come across in a non-prescription product. However, I've said 'supposedly' - I've also found some information that in fact it's a 20% concentration of 'glycolic compound', which acts more like 8% concentration of your normal glycolic acid. I was also unable to find any information on the pH level of this product, which is something that affects the effectiveness of the acid on your skin. As you can surely deduce, I'm not too smitten with this - I don't feel like it did anything good to my skin such as the promised reduction in oil production or diminished imperfections, and using it is certainly unpleasant.

Paula's Choice 2% BHA Gel is a clear runny gel containing salicylic acid (beta hydroxy acid) with some antioxidants such as grape seed extract and green tea extract. It's fragrance, paraben and oil-free and claims to calm redness, build collagen, unclog and diminish enlarged pores and create radiant, clear, even-toned skin. Generally, BHAs are preferrable to AHAs for people with acne-prone skin, because BHAs not only exfoliate the top layer of your skin, but are also capable of penetrating the pores and loosening the debris collecting there. I can personally vouch that the Paula's Choice BHA Gel did in fact work a lot better for me than the MD Forte Glycare, whether it's because one contains BHA and the other AHA or because the former is just a better formulation all around. Paula's Choice BHA Gel was gentle enough for me to use every night (and my skin is rather sensitive too), didn't feel drying at all, seemed to fade some of my hyperpigmentation marks and somewhat helped control my breakouts. The pH level of 3.2-3.6 also guarantees the effectiveness of the acid. My only gripe with the gel is that it feels incredibly sticky on the skin, no matter how much or how little you use; on top of that the bottle tends to spill when travelling, but that's been improved on since I bought mine. All in all, I wouldn't necessarily repurchase this exact same product from Paula's Choice, but I might try her BHA liquid next time I'm on the market for a chemical exfoliant.

I hope this has been somewhat useful, at least to those of you whose skin might be similar to mine. Speaking of skincare, I will be posting an update on my fight with picking very soon, and I've also recently been to a dermatologist and wondered whether you, my lovely readers, wanted to hear about my experience. Other than that, please let me know in the comments your favorite exofliants, be it chemical or not!

Overview: Spot Treatments

What a better time to give you a little overview of all different spot treatments I have in my posession than when I am particularly spotty? See, there must be at least one good thing about the mess happening on my face lately, and that is to throw in my two cents about different pimple fighters so you could choose something which actually works for a change.

Before I start, I'd like to recommend great skincare videos by the fabulous Dr. Schultz over at DermTV because I'm going to throw in some TERMINOLOGY here to make matters more unnecessarily complicated precise. My overview will focus on key acne-fighting over-the-counter ingredients and how exactly they work for my skin, with specific products given as examples.


1. Benzoyl Peroxide (Bioelements Breakout Control Emergency Blemish Lotion). One of the two most common anti-acne ingredients, Benzoyl Peroxide works as an oxidizing agent on the acne-causing bacteria and increases cell turnover to help prevent blocked pores. The downside is that it is fairly drying and irritating, plus once you stop using it, your acne will come right back as it doesn't increase your body's ability to fight the bacteria. On my skin, it works best for tiny whiteheads on my forehead (mostly the result of too much head scratching) and small pustules and doesn't do much more than dry the spot out on bigger hormonal cysts.

2. Salicylic Acid & other AHA/BHA/LHA acids (La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo Corrective and Unclogging Anti-Imperfection Care). Salicylic and other acids fight acne by encouraging the sloughing of dead skin cells, thus unclogging your pores. Downside, it is quite irritating and might also feel drying, in which case I would recommend switching to glycolic acid. On my skin, various acids work best on non-inflammatory acne (whiteheads and blackheads) and also help fade post-acne scarring tremendously.


3. Sulfur (Mario Badescu Drying Lotion and Drying Cream). From my research, it seems that science is still not sure how exactly sulfur helps fight acne, other than it might have a similar keratolytic effect to salicylic acid. In my experience, the MB Drying Lotion works best on inflammatory pustules (with a white head), while Drying Cream performs better on papules (no head) and cysts. Actually, both of these products are a bit more complex and contain a number of anti-acne ingredients, such as calamine, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, but for clarity's sake I bundled them up here. A little tip: don't bother buying the full-size Drying Cream, I have had this sample for 4 months and it's not even half empty.

4. Herbal Remedies (Angel Face Botanicals Blemish Soother). This here is a 75% organic serum containing jojoba oil and a mix of essential oils: tea tree, lavender, sage and bergamot. I'm planning on writing a separate post on natural acne remedies, but decided to give this store-bought concotion a little review here. This actually works quite well on bigger cysts as it soothes the inflammation without excessive dryness. I also like to put it on any marks other blemishes might have left behind. It's worth a try, but to be completely honest I do think you can make your own pimple potion at home by blending a base oil of your choice with a couple favorite essential oils.


I hope this short overview has maybe given you an idea of what could work on your skin without resorting to the trip to a dermatologist, which is recommended if your acne is anything worse than mild to moderate. What are your favorite spot treatments?

What Beauty is Made of: Hydrosols

Hydrosol, also known as floral, herbal or essential water or hydrolate or herbal distillate (phew!) is a water solution that remains after producing an essential oil in the process of distillation. Hydrosols contain water soluble plant compounds, water-loving acids and approximately .02% essential oil: high acidity (pH 3.6-6.1) means they're antiseptic and anti-inflammatory, while the tiny amount of essential oil imparts a beautiful aroma making it a safer and less irritating alternative to the essential oil itself. Hydrosols can't be obtained by mixing water and essential oil, and the best hydrosols aren't byproducts of essential oil distillation, but are distilled specifically for their therapeutic benefits.

Hydrosols' subtle aroma, astringency and anti-bacterial properties make them an ideal ingredient in facial toners, body and room sprays, bath products and creams. However, being water-based products, they're less stable than oils and usually require a preservative to prevent contamination.

People have been using hydrosols in food, religious ceremonies and healthcare for centuries: rose water or orange flower water are common ingredients in Arab, Mediterranean and French desserts, such as delicious madeleines, marzipan and marshmallows. Sweet treats aside, many natural and organic skincare companies have started using various hydrosols in their formulations for the benefit of our skin.

Let's take a look at some of the most common hydrosols:


Lavender (Lavendula Angustifolia) hydrosol - gentle, soothing and balancing, ideal as toner for all skin types, especially those which are damaged or sunburnt; also great as a compress to relieve stress or headache

Rose (Rosa damascena) hydrosol - again, fabulous toner for all skin types that smells exactly like a rose garden. It's both moisturizing & beneficial for dry or mature skin types, as well as balancing, as it controls sebum production in combination/oily skin types. It's gentle enough to use on troubled skin and works great in facial masks or combined with other hydrosols.

Rose Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) hydrosol - great for cellular regeneration, balancing for both dry and oily skin types, it's also useful for baths. When inhaled, it has a cooling and antidepressant effect and can be also taken internally to regain hormonal balance.

Neroli/ Orange Blossom (Citrus aurantium) hydrosol - smells good enough to drink, like sweet, freshly squeezed oranges :) Neroli hydrosol has uplifting, calming and refreshing properties and, being mildly astringent, is best suited for oily or acneic skin, but gentle enough to use on sensitive skin as well.

Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) hydrosol - you guessed it, this hydrosol smells like freshly sliced cucumbers with a sweet, melonlike note. Cooling and anti-inflammatory, it's amazing for rashes and irritated skin, and used as an eye compress, relieves puffinnes and redness. As a toner, it firms the delicate facial skin and combats fine lines, and can also be used as a refreshing mist throughout the day to keep skin cool and matte.

Witch Hazel (Hammemelis virginiana) hydrosol - witch hazel distillate is the most common hydrosol and has been sold in the US for over 150 years. However, what is available commercially usually has alcohol added to it for preservation, so read the label carefully before buying (I've seen some witch hazel hydrosol-based toner without alcohol in my local Whole Foods, so you could try there). It has antifungal, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties and because it has little odor, is also readily used by men. It's wonderful for both teenage skin as well as mature skin since it's packed with antioxidants. Heals blistered or cracked skin, which makes it a wonderful treatment for soothing eczema and psoriasis.

I think my next choice of facial toner will definitely be a hydrosol, but I'm torn between witch hazel and rose... I guess I'll just get both and mix them; that's another fabulous thing about hydrosols, you can mix them together liberally to create your own blend tailored specifically to your skin's needs and taste. Have you ever tried hydrosols or hydrosol-based toners? xxx

What Beauty is Made of: Base Oils

Ok, I admit it: I'm addicted to reading labels. Be it clothing, food or cosmetics in particular, I can't help it; I passionately decypher the ingredients' list and pretend to be all the wiser. I'm sure at least some of you share this obsession with me, but how often do we actually know what the ingredients that make up our cosmetics really are? Most of the time, I don't. Do you?

I've been thinking about this recently while browsing natural skincare lines. I've noticed that I'm much more drawn to the products which the producer supplied with not only an ingredients' list, but also a detailed description of what each ingredient is supposed to do for my skin. Maybe it's just me, but I love knowing what it is that I'm putting on my face and how it is supposed to work to my skin's benefit.

Pursuing that train of thought, I decided to start a new series 'What Beauty is Made of', in which I'll try to break down the most common (or the coolest :) skincare ingredients for you, explaining what they are and what they do. Sounds interesting? Keep reading; if not, come back later.

So today we're going to devote ourselves to the study of base oils, which are also called carrier oils, fixed oils or vegetable oils (do I sound like a teacher? That's probably because I am one). Base oils are commonly used in natural skincare to dilute and carry essential oils into the skin. They differ from essential oils in that they usually have a delicate scent, aren't volatile and are derived from the fatty portion of a plant (seeds, kernels, nuts) and not from leaves or flowers as in the case of essential oils. Similarly to essential oils, base oils have many benefits; they contain vitamins, minerals and Essential Fatty Acids which are indispensable for our skin. To preserve all these fragile nutritients, base oils should be produced using cold-pressing, cold expeller pressing or maceration method.

Let's take a closer look at some of my favorite base oils:


Olive (Olea europaea) oil - The most readily available and universally beneficial oil. It's quite heavy and has a distinct scent, but works miracles on the skin: it's a great moisturizer (it's rich in omega-9 fatty acids and antioxidants), works a treat as a cleansing oil, can be used in a bath or combined with sugar for a great natural exfoliator. Try Spa Goddess's DIY lavender honey salt scrub recipe - it's good enough to eat!

Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis) oil - This oil is produced from a beautiful flower which blooms at the sunset, hence the name (how romantic!). Rich in omega-6 and other acids, it has an anti-inflammatory effect and helps to reduce swelling and irritation. It's beneficial in the treatment of various skin conditions including acne, eczema and psoriasis. Softens and hydrates the skin.

Jojoba (Simmondsia chinesis) oil - In fact, it's a wax produced from leathery leaves of a desert shrub of jojoba. Its composition is similar to that of skin's natural oils, which makes it a perfect treatment for oilier skin types: it mimicks the sebum so that your skin doesn't have to produce that much of it. It has anti-inflammatory properties as well and a very long shelf life.

Rose Hip (Rosa mosqueta) oil - This expensive oil hydrates the skin and retards the appearance of skin-aging signs, photo-aging included. It also reduces scars, helps strengthen broken capillaries and can be used to treat damaged, brittle hair or sunburns.

Meadowfoam (Limnathes alba) oil - Rich in Vitamin E, which helps to combat the signs of aging. It moisturizes the skin, protects it from sunrays and adds shine to lifeless hair. It's very stable and soaks in easily without leaving a greasy residue.

Have you tried any of these oils? What are your favorites? I hope you enjoyed this post and the concept of the series and stay tuned for a new chapter next week: we're going to experiment with hydrosols.