Eyeshadow Dupes: Swatching Shimmery & Metallic Light Pinks, White Golds & Champagne

As you may remember, I have been trying to use up my theBalm Nude' Tude eyeshadow palette as part of a Project Pan That Palette since January of this year (see my latest update here). However, that doesn't mean that I have completely neglected the rest of my stash; while I don't really wear any other shadows than those in the Nude' Tude, the Project has really driven home why I shouldn't be buying any more eyeshadow palettes: I have way too many neutral shades in my stash already, as illustrated in my 'I'm Never Buying Another Eyeshadow Palette Again' ramble here. As an extension of that post, I've been busy playing around with my other shade families and trying to weed out dupes and inferior formulas, and the photos below are the result.

I KNOW. Before you judge me, go sift through your own stash ;)

I have pretty much decided to end my Pan That Palette at the end of August; my baby boy is due to arrive in early October and I'd like to have one month in between to experiment with the rest of my eyeshadow stash. Because of that decision, I have been thinking about what I want to do with the Nude' Tude once I finish the Project, and I've come to the conclusion that there are a few shades in it that I'd like to keep by depotting them into a magnetic palette. The rest will just be tossed in the trash unfortunately - I don't want to pass on half-used or unused but subpar shadows to any of my friends and family. As I was contemplating which shades to depot, I decided to have a quick look at the rest of my eyeshadow collection to see if I had any similar shades already in my Z-Palettes. And then it hit me. DO I EVER.

I was specifically looking for dupes/ comparable shades to theBalm Stand-offish, thus far my most used eyeshadow out of the entire palette, but for more variety, I've also included shimmery (or metallic/ frost/ pearl finish, whatever you want to call it) light pinks and white golds/ ivory shades. To be honest, this is not even the entirety of my stash - I have more shades I could include in both single pans/ depot form as well as other eyeshadow palettes. But anyway, here's what I found:

Sorry, the L-R order isn't the same as my arm swatches for this group: Inglot 397, Stila Academy, Inglot AMC Shine 142

Out of the light pinks, I don't think any of these are actually dupes. Stila Academy has more of a cool undertone than Inglot 397, which is somewhere between a warm light pink and a champagne/ peach. Inglot AMC Shine 142 isn't as soft or pigmented as the other two, but has both a subtle glowing pink duochrome (it wouldn't show up in the photos no matter the angle) and some sparse silver microglitters.

L-R: Fyrinnae Nijiro, RBR Unforgettable Oriole, Marc Jacobs The Ingenue Trio (leftmost shade)

In the white gold/ shimmery ivory color family, I own two shades that are incredibly close but still not complete dupes: Fyrinnae Nijiro has a blue & pink micro sparkle to it under artificial lights where Rouge Bunny Rouge Unforgettable Oriole is more of a typical pearl finish. The Marc Jacobs far left shade from The Ingenue trio (reviewed here) is the odd one out: both darker and more of a satin than metallic finish.

L-R: Too Faced Silk Teddy, theBalm Stand-offish (at the top), Stila Kitten, Wet n'Wild Browbone shade from The Gilded Age trio, MAC All That Glitters

However, I had the most luck (alas) finding dupes in the champagne/ light peach category. Maybe because those shades are the most universally flattering, but I feel like they feature in a lot of palettes, both drugstore and high-end. Let's consider the cult classic Stila Kitten - yes, it's an incredibly soft, smooth, buttery, pigmented shadow. However, as you can hopefully see in my photos, I have two other shades in my stash that are pretty much the same: theBalm Stand-offish and an Eyebrow shade from a LE Wet n'Wild trio called The Gilded Age. Out of these three, I'd say that Kitten still has the best formula; theBalm and Wet n'Wild can be just a tad too powdery/ flakey, but it's nit-picking here. If you have one, you don't need the other two.

Too Faced Silk Teddy (from the Natural Eyes palette) is lighter and more pink than theBalm Stand-offish, Stila Kitten and the Wet n'Wild shadows - I probably could have included it in my light pink grouping. MAC All That Glitters is significantly darker and less metallic than the other four shadows; on me, it's fine as an all over the lid shade, but too dark to be used as a highlight in the inner corners.

As you can see from my little experiment, I definitely do NOT need to depot that Stand-offish shade from my Nude' Tude palette. However, I'm thinking now that maybe I will hold on to it after all, and instead pass on the Wet n'Wild The Gilded Age shade - not because the formula is inferior (they really are the same, you guys), but because I'd rather pass on a lightly used dupe to a loved one and keep half-used Stand-offish, which is also a smaller pan and thus more efficient to store, as a back-up to my favorite Stila Kitten. Not that I really need a back-up... but it's hard to stop hoarding eyeshadows after all these years of collecting. Which one(s) would you give away?

I hope you enjoyed this installment of Shop/ Swatch My Stash. Please let me know if there's a particular group of products or shades you would like to see next: maybe my pinky/ mauve My Lips But Better lipsticks, or my vast collection of taupe eyeshadows, or my bright/ colorful shades. What dupes have you discovered in your stash recently?

Current Masking Duo: Peter Thomas Roth Rose Stem Cell Gel Mask & Clarins Pure and Radiant

Today I'd like to share with you two short reviews of the facial masks I've been using currently. I was sorting through my stash of skincare minis a few weeks ago and came across these two beauties: Peter Thomas Roth Rose Stem Cell Bio-Repair Gel Mask ($52 for 5 oz, mine is a GWP size) and Clarins Truly Matte Pure and Radiant Mask with Pink Clay ($33 for 1.7 fl oz, again I have a GWP deluxe sample).

Let's start with the Peter Thomas Roth Rose Stem Cell. This mask claims to 'help counteract visible signs of aging, including the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, dehydration, dullness, and sagging'. It contains 'cell extracts' of four different types of roses, as well as castor oil, rose oils, rose water, glycerin, allantoin and aloe. Mind you, I don't believe in stem cell technology for topical cosmetic use - research doesn't support the claim that those 'isolated stem cells' have any miraculous anti-aging effects. I think it's just a marketing gimmick - but I can disregard that if the product performs well anyway.
 
Peter Thomas Roth Rose Stem Cell Mask strongly reminds me of rose-scented hair gel. It's quite thick and spreads easily, but it doesn't melt into the skin the same way as my beloved Laneige Water Sleeping Mask (reviewed here). Once applied, the gel feels cooling and soothing on the skin, and after a couple minutes, sinks in but still leaves a discernible layer on the face. After rinsing my face after the recommended 10 minutes (which actually isn't all that easy - the residue sticks to the skin and refuses to leave without some elbow grease), my skin feels soft and soothed but only a little hydrated. Sure, this mask isn't drying, but it's definitely not as hydrating as just about any sheet mask I've tried, or the above mentioned Laneige, or even the much less expensive Andalou Naturals 1000 Roses Rosewater Mask, reviewed here. I don't know, you guys; it's nice, it's quite pleasant to use, but I've had better results with other masks. For me, the performance doesn't warrant the high price tag.

On the other hand, I was quite pleasantly surprised by the Clarins Pure and Radiant Mask. It claims to 'clean, tighten and refine pores with a fresh matte result' as well as 'soften, smooth and comfort skin with Linden Extract'. I think it does exactly that. Annoingly, Clarins doesn't provide full ingredients lists for their products - I've only found an INCI list on Beautypedia (which gives this mask a 2 out 5 rating, by the way), according to which this contains kaolin, titanium dioxide as well as a whole host of emollients such as caprylic/ capric triglycerides, glycerin and isoparaffin.

Yeah, so maybe this mask doesn't have the best ingredients and contains signature Clarins fragrance (which I actuallt enjoy) - but it still works rather well. It has a smooth creamy consistency that's not too thick and thus easy to apply evenly on the face. While on the skin, it seems to sink in a little, without making your face incredibly tight and 'frozen', like a lot of clay masks tend to. It's also very easy to remove without scrubbing - it just rinses right off. After a 10-minute session with Clarins Pure and Radiant Mask, I'm left with a face that's soft and smooth, even in tone, and velvety matte. My pores appear somewhat smaller and there are no dry, irritated patches in sight.

If you've been considering this mask, I think it's a great little pick me up for normal to combination skin types that are prone to dehydration - because even though it's a clay mask, it doesn't dry the skin out. However, if your skin is combination to oily and you need some serious pore-purifying power - the Clarins mask isn't going to do much for you and I would probably steer you in the direction of something like the Aztec Healing Clay, reviewed here. Because my skin's been a lot drier and more sensitive lately, the Clarins is the perfect gentle clay mask for me - and I'll be sad once my sample runs out, but probably won't purchase the full size right away as I still want to compare it to the Caudalie Instant Detox Mask with pink clay.

There you have it - two short and sweet mask reviews. I'm curious, which masks are you reaching for in the winter? Do you still use clarifying masks or shelve them away until the warmer season? What is your favorite hydrating mask?

More Zoeva Brush Reviews: 101 Luxe Face Definer, 102 Silk Finish, 142 Concealer Buffer & 226 Smudger

My first Zoeva brush review (click here for more information on the company, the ordering process and 105, 109, 227, 231 and 317 brushes) is currently one of my most popular posts, so I thought it may be helpful to share my thoughts on four more Zoeva brushes I purchased recently. This year, I've been really focused on sorting through my make-up brush collection and updating some brush types that I reach for frequently, and having had great luck with my first Zoeva order, I decided to get just a few more.

Let's start with 101 Luxe Face Definer Brush ($24, also available in vegan bamboo edition). I actually don't have a similar brush to compare it to, but it's a larger face brush with long natural (I'm assuming goat) bristles that taper down, giving it somewhat of an egg shape. The Face Definer can be used for applying setting powder either to specific areas of the face or all around, but I find it especially useful for bronzing and contouring powders.

101 Luxe Face Definer next to 105 Luxe Highlight for size and shape reference

The brush picks up product easily, either using just the tip or a side of the brush, and blends powders seamlessly on the face. The length of the bristles make it a bit more floppy, which works well for avoiding a harsh contour/ bronzer line; it gives a subtler, more diffused effect than the 109 Face Paint brush from my last order, but it also covers a larger area of the face. The natural bristles feel very soft and plush on the skin (obviously not as soft as Japanese blue squirrel brushes, but hey, let's not get ahead of ourselves here...), and wash well with soap and warm water. To preserve the tapered shape and avoid stray hairs, I dry it overnight in a plastic mesh brush guard.

I ordered the 102 Silk Finish ($15.50, vegan taklon bristles) as a back-up for my beloved Real Techniques Buffing brush (pictured), which is a favorite for applying liquid and cream foundations. However, the Zoeva version turned out to be a little different. The Silk Finish brush is incredibly dense with a domed shape, and works well both for pressing/ stippling the product into the skin as well as blending it out in circular motions. Compared to the Real Techniques, it is much denser and thus less flexible on the skin, which is why I like the Zoeva better for stippling rather than buffing motions (the opposite being true for the RT). The 102 Silk Finish doesn't absorb too much foundation, doesn't leave streaks or brush marks, washes and dries well even without the brush guard.

The 142 Concealer Buffer ($10.50, vegan taklon bristles, also available in the Bamboo Edition) is pretty much a scaled-down version of the 102 Silk Finish. Again, it's very dense and has a domed head, which works well to blend out concealer under the eyes and on other areas of the face without losing coverage. Because the bristles are so dense, the brush can also be used to stipple the product on the skin; I really enjoy using it around my nose and on some larger marks/ blemishes elsewhere on the face. Compared to a standard eye blending brush (even the Real Techniques domed shadow/ crease brush), the bristles on the 142 Concealer Buffer are twice as dense and the ferrule is round, not pinched, which translates into a more opaque application.

Lastly, the 226 Smudger ($9.50, synthetic taklon bristles, also availale in the Bamboo Edition) is your typical brush for applying and smudging out darker shades along the upper and lower lashline. The main difference between the Zoeva Smudger and my other eye smudging brushes is the length of the bristles - the ones on the 226 are much shorter, and the ferrule is wider. This makes this brush a lot firmer, which on one hand, feels a bit stabby on the sensitive skin around the eyes, but on the other, makes blending out even the most pigmented pencils or liners incredibly easy. The tip of this brush is also finer than on my other smudgers (see below, compared to Bdellium Tools 772), so you can get a very precise application.

Again, I'm very satisfied with my purchase, and have been using these brushes nearly every day for the past month. I still think that Zoeva has remarkable quality brushes for a great price, even taking into consideration the gradual price increases and the high shipping costs (at least for North America). I feel that I have now achieved a well-edited, high quality brush stash tailored to my specific needs and preferences, so I'm not intending to purchase more brushes from Zoeva in the immediate future, but if I ever need to replacement, I'll happily order from them again. What is your favorite inexpensive brush brand? What are your go-to brushes for applying foundation and concealer?

In My Skincare Stash: Overview of Brightening and Exfoliating Masks and Peels

While attempting to use up my considerable stash of samples and minis via my Project the past two months, I've realized I had a lot of nice deluxe samples of masks and peels that were all aimed at brightening the skin. As a fair-skinned person, I struggle with hyperpigmentation all the time: freckles, age spots, post-inflammatory marks from acne and mosquito bites (yeah, that's a new one even for me) - you name it, I've got it. Which is why I've been enjoying treating my skin to a more intense exfoliating session about once a week, and these masks are perfect for a quick at-home treatment.

Starting with an old favorite, and the only full-sized product in this overview: the Dermalogica Gentle Cream Exfoliant ($41 for 2.5 fl. oz - they hiked up the price by at least $5 since the last time I bought it!), which I've talked about a couple times in the past, now sadly all used up and gone from my medicine cabinet. This is a fantastic option for combination and oily skintypes, as it both exfoliates with fruit enzymes, salicylic and lactic acid, but also helps to absorb the oil and minimize the appearance of pores with diatomaceous earth, which gives it a clay-like consistency. There aren't many products that give me immediate, visible results every time I reach for them, but this Gentle Cream Exfoliant really was one of those. If your skin is very sensitive, I'd definitely ask for a sample first, because it's not really that gentle - on my somewhat reactive skin, I'd get a tingle, but no irritation and little redness after application. I'm considering a repurchase.

Speaking of clay-like textures, I had high hopes for this Boscia Bright White Mask ($38 for 2.8 oz), which contains titanium dioxide as well as bentonite and kaolin clays, but it doesn't work for me at all. First off, my bad for not realizing this is a peel-off mask, which is a type I generally dislike partly because of the high alcohol content. It also took me a good 10 minutes to try and peel this mask off, at which point I gave up and just took it off with a warm washcloth. More importantly though, I could not see any brightening effect on my skin at all, and looking at the ingredients' list, I'm really not sure how this is supposed to brighten - there are some plant extracts and peptides in there, but with sporadic usage, I don't know how you'd be able to observe any significant results. I'd give it a pass.

The Elemental Herbology Facial Glow Radiance Peel ($66 for 1.7 fl oz; full size comes in a glass jar) is the only mask in this line-up that uses a combination of manual (jojoba beads) and chemical (mostly papaya enzyme but also glycolic, malic and lactic acids in a low percentage) exfoliants. Radiance Peel also contains vitamins A, C and E, manuka honey and nourishing oils like macadamia, olive and argan. I personally could do without the exfoliating beads, but otherwise, it's a lovely mask I'd recommend for normal to dry skintypes, as the creamy formulation seems to have an added moisturizing effect on the skin. The directions say to leave it on for 4 minutes, but I found that to be too short of a time to notice a result in my skin, so I'd leave it on for 10-15 minutes instead. I also think this one would be good to try if you're particularly sensitive, as I didn't get much of a tingle but still saw improvement in the texture and softness of my skin.

Jumping from one of the gentler options to something more hardcore, I found the Murad Intensive-C Radiance Peel ($55 for 1.7 oz) to be too much for my skin. This creamy mask contains glycolic acid, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, and while I love all of these ingredients, the Intensive-C mask burned my face like nobody's business - the sensation was actually quite similar to the mentholated tingling you'd get from lip plumpers. Yes, I saw noticeable improvement in the texture and clarity of my skin, but using this mask just wasn't pleasant. I'd recommend it to most skintypes with no sensitivity whatsoever, and preferrably after patch-testing a sample. You've been warned.

The popular REN Glycol Lactic Radiance Renewal Mask ($55 for 1.7 oz) also relies primarily on glycolic acid in combination with lactic acid and fruit enzymes (papain from papaya and bromelain from pineapple fruit extracts) in a moisturizing base of grape seed, cranberry seed, and seabuckthorn berry oils. I'll be honest with you - while I think this is a nice exfoliating mask that smells and looks like orange marmalade, I don't know why so many people rave about it over these other options I'm discussing today. My main problem was that this mask went off very quickly after I first opened my sample, becoming separated, grainy and very weird-smelling. I've also found a lot of citrus essential oils in the ingredients' list (bergamot fruit water, orange, mandarin, tangerine and grapefruit oils) and unfortunately, I'm allergic - although fortunately, I didn't come up in a big rash the few times I used it. Why do brightening products always have to smell like oranges, I ask you?

Lastly, we have another natural option: the Enzyme Peel Mask with Vitamin C and Papaya from The Organic Pharmacy ($79 for 40ml). This gel mask contains lactobionic acid (a Polyhydroxy acid, also known as PHA, which some studies have proven to be less irritating but as effective as glycolic acid thanks to its reduced absorption due to larger molecular structure), lactic and salicylic acids, both papaya and pineapple enzymes, and hyaluronic acid. It's a lovely product - slightly tingly on the face but not irritating, and I can definitely see an improvement in the texture, tone and hydration of my skin after usage. This is the first product I've ever tried from The Organic Pharmacy, and I have to say the experience has got me a lot more interested in their skincare range; although sadly, the products are without a doubt on the pricey side.

Speaking of prices, all of the masks I've reviewed for you today seem rather expensive to me now that I'm looking at it. I don't know if my tolerance for prices has shifted recently or what it is, but I don't feel okay spending over $50 on an exfoliating mask - to my knowledge, glycolic and salicylic acids as well as fruit enzymes are not expensive ingredients, so I'm not sure why all of these need to be so pricey. While I loved my Dermalogica Gentle Cream Exfoliant, I'm considering giving a cheaper option a try, and I've been looking at the derma-e Evenly Radiant Overnight Peel with AHAs (glycolic, lactic and malic), which retails for $15-18.75, or the Andalou Naturals Pumpkin Honey Glycolic Mask, which is $11-15, depending where you buy it. If you've tried one of those, please let me know!

Do you use exfoliating masks or peels on a regular basis? What is your favorite weekly exfoliating treatment?

Matte Radiance: Laura Mercier Baked Powder in Highlight 01

Before I launch straight into 'ooohs' and 'aaahs' over this highlighter, I have to (yet again!) thank Gummy for introducing it to me - or more specifically, including it in her Holiday giveaway prize that I was incredibly lucky to receive. There's something very special about beauty packages to me, and being given a couple products to try handpicked by a fellow junkie is just beyond exciting. Gummy, I loved everything about that package, from the card and wrapping, through the prizes, to the little extras you've thrown in!!!

I know, enough of waxing lyrical about Gummy's generosity - but if you wanted to participate in her future giveaways, better go and subscribe now - just sayin'. You may remember that around the same time last year I said that I never used highlighters, and didn't see the point of acquiring any for my stash. Well, this Laura Mercier Matte Radiance Baked Powder Compact in Highlight 01 ($38 for 0.26 oz) may be the game changer for me.

You see, as a person blessed (hmm...) with a combination, formerly oily skin type, I don't need much help in the radiance department. I don't know if it's a natural property of my skin or the skincare I'm using, but my face looks glowy without me even trying; like my skin can be dehydrated and flaky, but it will still look shiny (anyone else has observed that with their skin? No? Just me?). However, with the cold season, a generally lessened oil production in my skin, and some more mattifying foundations I've been trialling, I've found that I should probably revisit my stance towards highlighters.

Laura Mercier's Matte Radiance comes in a very sturdy and slightly bulky packaging with a mirror; it's a domed baked powder though, and you get a lot of it, so I understand the need for a bigger compact. The powder itself doesn't look too marbelized in the pan, it has more of a uniform appearance, with a soft sheen to the surface. The texture is very soft and kicks up a bit of powder, but goes on smooth and creamy on the skin.

Here's why I think you need it, even if you generally dislike highlighters. First of all, it does give a natural, but visibly glowy look to the skin. I know people laugh at the name 'Matte Radiance', but I get it: it's radiant but not shimmery, and in a different way than the Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powders. If you've tried Luminous Light and are thinking 'Pffft, who needs that? It does absolutely nothing', but also swatched something like theBalm Mary Lou-Manizer or BECCA's Pressed Shimmering Skin Perfectors and thought them way, way too much, Laura Mercier Highlight 01 is going to be exactly the sort of highlighter you've been looking for. It's definitely there and does an amazing job at bringing a youthful glow and definition to the cheeks, but it doesn't need to be strictly controlled for fear of looking like a drag queen in the daytime (nothing wrong with that, if that's what floats your boat). It's more... refined, you know? #whynotbesubtle

Secondly, if you're fair-skinned like me and find the bulk of popular highlighters simply too dark for your complexion, Matte Radiance in Highlight 01 is your friend. It's a slightly more champagne/ peachy version of my NW10/15 skin, so it blends in perfectly - see how dark and warm that Hourglass Luminous Light and Benefit Watt's Up are next to it? And yet, it works on darker and warmer Gummy as well, but if you're even darker (or are looking for a glowy bronzer), there are three more shades in this range.

L-R: Laura Mercier Matte Radiance in Highlight 01, Benefit Watt's Up, Rouge Bunny Rouge Eyeshadow in Unforgettable Oriole (see, more shimmery finish), Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powder in Luminous Light

I've been wearing it the past couple of days non stop and I'm really loving it. I find it very easy to blend, long lasting and complimentary for a variety of blush shades - I'm not wearing any blush in the face shot by the way, just a little bit of contour powder. I don't think it's too much, even with a more dewy foundation; I've really built it up for the photo, but you can also wear a very sheer layer. It also doesn't emphasize pores too bad - I know that when you look close up at the picture that's focused exactly on the highlighed area, you can see some texture there, but in real life it's not discernible to a naked eye.

All in all, while I don't see myself hoarding multiple highlighters in the near future, I do think there's a place for a refined glowy cheekbone in my make-up routine, and it's been fun to experiment with highlighting my features. Tell me, are you strictly against or all for highlighting? What's your current favorite highlighter?

In My Skincare Routine: Acid Toners & Exfoliating Pads Overview

Exfoliating toners or pads with AHAs and/or BHAs are one step in my skincare routine that I make sure not to skip. My combination skin gets clogged very easily, and at any given time I'm fighting both active breakouts, blackheads, various lumps and bumps as well as hyperpigmentation from past imperfections AND sun damage. I've been trying different products for the 'acid tone' stage of my routine for over a year now, and I thought I'd share my thoughts on the strength and effectiveness of the ones I tested, so you can navigate the choices a bit more easily if you're new to the daily exfoliating game.

First off, let's start with exfoliating pads. Remember the alcohol-laden drugstore pads from your teenage years of fighting acne? These are not very different in principle, but much kinder for your skin; I try to look for alcohol-free, fragrance-free pads with a short and sweet ingredients list whenever possible. In the order from the most gentle to the strongest:

First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads ($30 for 60 pads, contain lactic & glycolic acids, as well as cucumber, Indian gooseberry, lemon peel and licorice extracts, suitable for sensitive skin): If I had to choose my absolute favorite from the all the pads I tested, these would be it. These pads do exactly what it says on the packaging: smooth skin's texture, brighten its tone, tighten the pores, all in a non-drying, gentle, lightweight formula. The FAB Facial Radiance Pads are my favorite to use in the morning, because they don't aggravate my skin, and the actual liquid the pads are soaked in has a clear, fragrance-free, non-sticky and non-greasy formula. I do cut the pads in half, so I consider spending $30 every four months to be a reasonable price for happy, glowy skin. Will repurchase.

St. Ives Scrub-Free Exfoliating Pads ($5.99 for 60 pads, contain lactic acid, fruit extracts and Vitamin E, suitable for daily use and sensitive skin). I know - St. Ives of the peach kernels?! This is one of the very few alcohol-free drugstore options I was able to find, however scented with a fruit punch fragrance. In short, they're not bad: gentle, non-sticky, non-drying. However, they're not as effective as the First Aid Beauty Pads; I just don't feel that they keep clogs and breakouts at bay as well as the FAB ones. So yeah, I cheaped out, but they're just not as good. Still a good option if you're on a budget or deciding whether exfoliating pads are something you'd like to try.

Peter Thomas Roth Un-Wrinkle Peel Pads ($45 for 60 pads, contain glycolic, lactic, salicylic and linolenic acids, as well as aminoacids, Vitamins A, D, E, C and F, green tea, chamomile and aloe vera, suitable for daily use and all skintypes). Uhm, yeah, these are gooood - although better for evening use due to some reddening tingling and a somewhat greasier formula. Depending on your skintype, the brand suggests different frequency of usage, but I've gone with daily on my combination but sensitive skin and they've been working great. The instructions say to let the solution sit on the skin for a couple minutes and then rinse with water, but honestly, I just spritzed some hydrating toner on top and let it be. These unscented, alcohol-free Un-Wrinkle pads claim to minimize the pores, clarify the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and even out skintone. I can't vouch for fine lines, but my pores do seem tightened, the texture of my skin is smoother after use, and serums and moisturizers absorb better on top. I really like these pads, I just wish they were cheaper - and don't try to save by getting the less expensive PTR Max Complexion Correction Pads, as those contain both alcohol and fragrance.

Dr. Denis Gross Extra Strength Alpha Beta Peel Packettes ($145 for 60 two-step packettes, contain glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic, citric and salicylic acids in the first step, retinol, phospholipids, yarrow extract and various antioxidants in the second step; stronger version of their regular Alpha Beta Peel, suitable for all skin types). I looked high and low for information on how often you're supposed to use these pads (the regular strength ones can supposedly be used daily), and couldn't find anything - but in my experience, these are too strong to be used every day. Unfortunately, the first (exfoliating) step contains alcohol, and it does feel stingy and makes my face more red, but the whole routine isn't overly drying or harsh if used with caution. I whip these out once in a while at night, when my regular exfoliating pads/ toners are not quite cutting it in unclogging my pores. I think these packettes are effective, but the price point is a bit prohibitive; I'd rather spend less money on a good exfoliating mask that can be used many more times than these packettes.

Cane + Austin Retexturizing Treatment Pads 10% Glycolic ($60 for 60 pads, contain Vitamins A, C & E, coenzyme Q10, phospholipids, antioxidants, witch hazel, recommended for daily use and all skintypes). So I've only had a one-time use sample of these Cane + Austin pads, so I can't vouch for longterm results. While these pads have a simple enough ingredients list and contain no alcohol, they do contain ACETONE (and ammonia. Oh, and some menthol). Wait. WHAT?! The pad smelt like nail polish remover, stung my face and made me look red and sore. Pass.

Alpha-H Liquid Gold Power Peeling Pads (~$60 for 30 pads, unavailable in the US and possibly discontinued, contain 5% glycolic acid, glycerin, licorice extract and hydrolized silk, to be used every other night on the T-zone and problem areas). These are supposed to be soaked in the famous Alpha-H Liquid Gold exfoliant, and if that's the case, I'd better stay away. These do contain alcohol, and they sting and sensitize my skin. They did help to get rid of some flakes, but did nothing for my clogged pores and breakouts; well, maybe not nothing, actually made them look more red and angry. If Liquid Gold works for you, then great, but I wouldn't exactly recommend these for sensitive skin.

Now, acid toners! I've only tried two so far, and still have a couple more on my radar, so I'm sure I'll churn out an addendum to this overview once I test out more liquid stuff. Again, from the most gentle to the strongest:

Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid ($23 for 4 oz/118 ml, frequently available on sale for $18, contains salicylic acid, hydrating and absorption-enhancing methylpropanediol and green tea extract, fragrance and colorant-free, recommended for all skin types but especially combination/oily, to be used once or twice a day). I'm on the fence about the famous 2% BHA Liquid - on one hand, it's easy to use, non-irritating and non-drying, but on the other, it has a strange consistency that's slippy to the point of oily, and it doesn't seem as effective as First Aid Beauty or Peter Thomas Roth pads. I think this Paula's Choice exfoliant is a decent, gentle acid toner, but I wouldn't count on any miraculous results. Also, way better than Paula's gel BHA exfoliant.

Mario Badescu Glycolic Acid Toner ($18 for 8 oz, contains 2% glycolic acid, aloe vera and grapefruit extract, recommended for combination/dry skin types to be used twice a day). This alcohol-free but not fragrance or colorant-free toner worked very well for me in the beginning, but as the time went on, it started irritating my skin until I broke out in an itchy rash on my cheeks. Here's my full review in case you're curious about this product, but in short, I wouldn't recommend it for anyone with sensitive skin, and even if your skin isn't sensitive, please be cautious and don't use it more than once a day - it can definitely be drying if used more often.

Phew, that was a lot of information! I hope this comparison was helpful if you're looking into trying a daily exfoliant. My plan for tweaking the exfoliating step in my skincare routine is to repurchase the First Aid Beauty pads for use in the mornings, and look for another acid toner to alternate with Un-Wrinkle pads in the evenings - maybe the Pixi Glow Tonic, or the REN Clarimatte. What are your favorite exfoliating products?

Eye Blending Brushes Overview

What I limit myself in spending on make-up products, I channel into upgrading and diversifying my make-up tools - can't quite stay true to that low-buy! Today I wanted to show you an overview & comparison of my eye blending brushes, since I've recently got a couple more buzzed-about specimens and thought this might actually be quite helpful. A little disclaimer before you dive in: I'm not going to pick which of these brushes is the absolute best and tell you to run out and get it. I really do believe brush preferences are very individual as well as dependent on your eye size and shape; but hopefully you'd be able to extrapolate from my comments to suit your own eye blending needs. Another extra disclaimer: I do not own the MAC 217. So there.

Now, while in my eyes (har har), there are no exact dupes in this round-up/ all of these brushes perform slightly different, I obviously do not use them all at the same time. I usually have just one blending brush out that I use to deposit eyeshadow in the crease as well as lightly blend it out, another clean larger brush to further blend out the edges and a smaller, more tapered/pencil brush to deepen the outer V. Nearly all of the brushes shown here are used to place shadows in the crease and buff them out - I don't often faff around with the extra two mentioned above.

There are two basic brush head shapes you can see here: 4 pinched/ oval brushes and 2 round/bullet brushes. I have placed these brushes on a left-right continuum from oval and sporting the longest bristles/most tapered, through oval with shorter bristles, to round with the longest bristles again. Does that make sense to anyone? Hmm, maybe not. Anyway...

1. Wayne Goss Core Collection no. 06 Brush ($25, available on Beautylish, blue squirrel hair). The #06 brush has a pinched ferrule and longer bristles, resulting in something between a squashed oval and a paddle-shaped brush. According to the Beautylish representative I spoke to at IMATS, this is supposed to be Wayne's answer to the MAC 217, but I suspect it's actually quite a bit different. Wayne's brushes are handmade in Japan (reportedly in the Hakuhodo facilities) from uncut bristles, and the high quality is evident - the hairs feels luxuriously soft and the brush doesn't shed, but I find that it doesn't hold its shape the best after washing, even when dried in a Brush Guard. Despite that, I do like this brush quite a lot but find it a bit less intuitive/awkward to use because of its bordeline paddle shape and slight floppiness; I have to maneuver and turn it this way and that when blending shadows out, and it picks up less product than its denser brothers. Beautiful brush, but perhaps not the best for the 'whack and go' approach I opt for most days.

2. Sigma Beauty GWP Travel Blending E25 Brush ($12 for regular size, goat hair?). I own three Sigma brushes that I acquired somewhat accidentally, and I'm not a fan of either. While the E25 has an almost ideal shape and size to suit my needs (neither too large or too small, oval shape, some resistance to the bristles that allows for more controlled/precise shaping), the execution is rather poor: the bristles are slightly scratchy, the brush head has some unevenly cut hairs poking out, the hairs themselves are almost textured/frizzy and not smooth. It's not my favorite, but I still use it - and the shorter handle on their GWP version is quite handy for travel. I do not however understand the amount of hype surrounding Sigma products, and I will not buy (or uhm, further acquire?) any more of their brushes.

3. bdellium Tools Studio 776 Blending ($9, goat hair?). If you want my recommendation for an inexpensive, versatile blending/crease brush, this is it. I've had this particular 776 brush for about three years now (still going strong!), and it remains my most used eyeshadow brush. The 776 has marginally shorter bristles/more compact and rounder head than the Sigma E25, so it's perfectly suited to perform a myriad of functions on my small-ish lids: placing, shaping and blending both powder and cream eyeshadows on the lid as well as in the crease with just the right amount of control. I think it's a fantastic brush for the price, and while the firmer bristles are not always able to create the perfect diffused/blended out transition in the crease, it's simply the quickest and easiest to use for everyday shadow application.

4. Real Techniques by Samantha Chapman Shading Brush ($6, synthetic bristles). I hesitated to include this brush in this overview simply because I don't actually use it as an eyeshadow brush - I find it better suited for cream concealer. This is a wide, dense, slightly larger brush, and so not the ideal size for my limited crease space. It does however work fantastically well for really buffing products into the skin: the bristles are soft but quite firm, so you can blend products in very thin layers. I actually think it might work for me as a cream shadow brush; but it is too big for me to place or blend eyeshadows in the crease.

5. bdellium Tools Studio 781 Crease ($10.50, natural bristles, maybe horse?). On the other hand, the bdellium 781 is too small for me to use as an eyeshadow blending brush. It's a round, compact, firm brush with a slightly tapered head, a bit larger than a pencil brush but a similar shape. I find it perfectly suited for deepening the outer corners or precise placing of darker shades on the eyes - quite similar to what I was using the limited edition MAC 226 brush for, so if you're looking for a functional dupe, it's worth looking into.

6. Hakuhodo J 5533 Eye Shadow Brush Tapered ($17, uncut goat hair). Dear readers, meet my new brush love - the soft, round, slightly floppy J 5533, aka the 'Fluffy'. As you can hopefully see from the group shots, this brush has the longest bristles, and so displays slightly less control than either Sigma E25 or bdellium 776; but it has the upper hand in perfectly diffusing eyeshadows in the crease into nothigness. Because of its softness/floppiness, it doesn't pick up a lot of product, but it's enough for my usual subtle crease needs. The brush head is the perfect size for my eyes, and it's just so, so pleasant to use. A new staple - and I'll definitely work on building my Haku collection in the future. There are so many to choose from!

I think eyeshadow blending brushes are probably the hardest to get just right, and something that's worth experimenting with. For more blending brush nit-picking, including more Hakuhodo, Tom Ford, Paula Dorf, MAC, Suqqu and others (I know) check out Driveller Kate's post here. Do you own multiple eye blending brushes or do you find just one sufficient for your needs? Do you have any favorites?

Giving Bronzer Another Go With Too Faced Milk Chocolate Soleil

For the past couple of months, I'd been only reaching for bronzer to apply it on my... neck. I know I've lost some of you there, but bear with me: it simply looked WRONG on my pale face, and the only use I could find for it was bronzing up my neck slightly to match a too dark foundation on my face. But, there's something to be said about the effortless, summery glow that a quick swipe of bronzer instantly adds to one's face, and so I decided to track down a bronzing powder which would look RIGHT on my fair, fair skin.

Enter a lovely suggestion from Lisa Eldrige's 'How To Wear Bronzer Beautifully' video: Too Faced Milk Chocolate Soleil Light/ Medium Matte Bronzer ($30 for 10g/ 0.35 oz). In theory, it ticked all the boxes: reasonably light shade, rather compact, matte finish, decent price tag. Review spoiler alert: in practice, all the boxes remain gloriously ticked.

 While the plastic packaging lacks simple elegance and class of some more luxurious brands, the compact feels sturdy and snaps shut with a secure click, and comes with a large mirror. In reality, the 'Milk Chocolate' marketing blurb is more of a gimmick: the claims of antioxidant cocoa are probably a bit far fetched, as it comes towards the very end of the ingredients' list, and the sweet hot chocolate scent is most likely all due to the artificial fragrance. I don't really mind it though: I'm looking for a well-formulated bronzer, not pressed cocoa powder to dust on my face. And the chocolate lover in me does appreciate the happy, delicious scent emanating from the compact.

The texture of the powder is fine and silky: it does have a fair amount of slip and feels creamier than my other bronzers. I was a bit worried that could cause blending issues with the powder grabbing too much onto liquid foundation, but no, it blends out seamlessly and doesn't sit on top of the skin, or sink into pores. I would say Milk Chocolate Soleil has medium pigmentation; that, combined with the lighter hue, gives just a whisper of warmth to my skin with one swipe, but it can be built up to the 'I just came back from a beach vacation' level (or, as much as I can hope to achieve one...) with a couple more layers.

Here's a quick shade comparison for you: next to my only other light matte bronzer, The Body Shop Honey Bronzing Powder in 02 Fair Matte (yes, they do make one shade lighter and yes, I have used the heck out of mine), Too Faced Milk Chocolate is warmer and more well... uhm... orange. I know 'orange' is officialy a no-no when describing a bronzer, but you guys - my natural tan is a peachy, orangey shade, and so are my freckles (or actually, my facial tan often equals freckles). So yes, it is more orange compared to the slightly pinkier The Body Shop Honey bronzer, and a lot lighter and less brown than both Benefit Hoola, and the darkest bronzer in my collection, theBalm Bahama Mama.

L-R: Too Faced Milk Chocolate Soleil, The Body Shop Honey Bronzing Powder in Fair Matte, Benefit Hoola, theBalm Bahama Mama.

To showcase my recently rediscovered bronzing passion, I decided to go for a simple, sunkissed look with Too Faced Milk Chocolate Soleil used on high points of my face (liberally on the cheeks, temples, up into the hairline, a tiny bit across the bridge of my nose and on the chin, as well as - you guessed it - down on my neck), and also lightly in the crease of the eyes for some definition. I smudged a dark brown eyeliner pencil on my lashline, applied lots of black mascara and finished with a slick of Rimmel Soft Coral lipstick, patted down with a finger to take off some of the glitter and shine. I like this look: it's quick, it's easy, it makes me look rested and subtly polished.

Do you also struggle with finding the right bronzer shades? Is bronzer an everyday part of your make-up routine, or do you reserve it for specific looks? I'd love to hear your thoughts!