My K-Beauty Inspired Morning Skincare Routine: Summer 2017

A few things have changed since my last morning skincare post, here. Firstly, I'm no longer pregnant, and unfortunately my skin pretty much returned to its sad acne-prone, oily/ combination state :( Oh I miss you so, pregnancy glow *woefully stares at eye bags & blemishes in the mirror*. Secondly, yes, I have since majorly hopped back onto the K-Beauty skincare train thanks to overenthusiastic perusal of the Asian Beauty subreddit. As a result, my routine is quite a bit different - shall we take a look?

Before we start, a few facts about me and my skin, in case you're not a regular reader: I'm 30 (WHAT?! When did that happen?! Lol, jk), fair to light skintone, and my main concerns at the moment are treating and preventing acne, fading red post-acne P.I.E., as well as aiding dehydration and skin-aging in the form of fine lines, mostly around my eyes.

As a side note, I'm not going to provide reviews for separate products in my routine here, partly because it would cause this post to inflate to a mind-numbing length, but mostly because I haven't tested all of these products enough yet to give a thorough review. Yeah, so I did introduce more than one product to my routine all at once (and if I only swapped out one product, what would be the point in writing this post, right?). However, I also run out of a whole bunch of products all at once, and didn't love those enough to repurchase. So there - shoot me. My face hasn't fallen off (yet).

My typical mom morning skincare routine with an eight month old Julian starts by buckling him into his bouncer with a toy (or, you know, a kitchen utensil, since that tends to hold his attention for a few more minutes - he specifically enjoys whisks and the egg beater attachment for our mixer) and quickly running to the bathroom to wash my face. I'm currently using the last dregs of Lagom Cell Up Gel to Water Cleanser, but I have already dabbled in its replacement, the Erborian Gentle Cleansing Foam, which I vastly prefer. Wait, what - a foaming cleanser?! I'll admit that I may have been convinced to use a low pH foam cleanser after all. I think that *maybe* overusing balm and cream cleansers with a hot washcloth wasn't doing the greatest things for my skin, especially in the morning. Plus, it's much faster (and more refreshing, especially in the summer!) to gently massage my face with a light foam and just splash it off with cool water. It also helps to feel more awake after being rudely woken up by a hangry baby at the ungodly hour of 6.30 am ;)

I'll then pat my face dry with a towel, spritz on some COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner (for the purpose of balancing my skin's pH level for the following L-Ascorbic Acid step, the COSRX toner is definitely NOT an exfoliant - I won't repurchase though, I don't think it's necessary after a low pH cleanser) and press in half a pipette of NuFountain C20 + Ferulic Serum (from Amazon). I'm choosing to use my Vitamin C in the morning as some studies have shown it boosts the effectiveness of sunscreen, but using the potent but unstable L-AA form of Vit C has quite a few drawbacks, so I'm not sure if I'll continue with this particular active after my bottle of the NuFountain runs out (or, more likely, oxidizes half-way though).

I then run out of the bathroom and go on with my morning, which mostly involves attempting to eat breakfast and do some light house chores while simultaneously keeping Julian occupied and happy. I succeed probably 50% of the time :)

When Mister Jay gets tired of independent floor play (mind you, he's not crawling or walking yet) and Daddy play ends due to Daddy having to eventually get to work, he (I mean Julian, not my husband) gets strapped into the bouncer again and we head back to the bathroom together (he really enjoys being in the bathroom for whatever reason).

Forgot to add food play. Julian's apparently hatching a plan to take over the universe while gnawing on a piece of melon.

This is the time I complete the rest of my routine. I either rinse off the NuFountain C20 + Ferulic, or leave it - at this point, the L-AA has done all its magic either way. I follow with either the Cremorlab T.E.N Mineral Treatment Essence, decanted into a spray bottle (full review here), or a newbie to my stash, Benton Snail Bee High Content Skin - essentialy, a hydrating toner. I then apply a thin layer of my HG Hada Labo Gokujuyn Hyaluronic Acid Lotion (reviewed here) on skin still damp from the toner. I seal all that hydration in with the Mizon Snail Recovery Gel Cream (reviewed here); I'm running out though and would like to trial the Laneige Balancing Emulsion for Combination/ Oily Skin*, which I've kept in my back-up stash for a very long time. Lastly, I layer on a good amount of Shiseido Urban Environment Oil-Free UV Protector Broad Spectrum SPF 42 PA+++.

Thin hydrating layers, L-R in the order of viscosity: Cremorlab Essence, Benton Snail Bee High Content Skin, Hada Labo Gokujyun Lotion.

You may have noticed the omission of chemical exfoliation (AHAs or BHAs) compared to my last routine - the main reason for this is that I'm currently using Differin at night and would like to avoid irritation/ overexfoliation, as well as be able to truly evaluate the effectiveness of adapalene in treating my acne (I'm planning to write a separate post on my Differin experience in a few weeks' time, after completing my trial run. The jury is still out).

When my eye area is particularly dry, I'll also dab on some Aveda Tulasara Eye Wedding Masque, but I mostly reserve it for night time.

I've been following this routine for over a month now, and while it's still quite early, I can already tell you my skintone is looking more even (less irritated as well as less hyperpigmentation/ sun spots) and my skin feels more hydrated, plump and bouncy. I also notice less sebum breakthrough as the day goes on. I haven't noticed a major decrease in blemishes or clogged pores, but I do think the emerging blemishes heal more quickly. Overall, I think my skin is heading in the right direction.

That's it - the evening routine shall follow shortly (or, more like in a month or so, judging from my current posting schedule). Please leave any questions in the comments, but I am also planning on reviewing most of these newly-introduced products in separate posts to follow. Has your skincare routine changed in any major way now that we're in the midst of the heat and humidity?

My Current (Lack of) Beauty Favorites

It seems that somewhere along the way I just organically abandoned the idea of writing regular favorites posts. Mostly because I don't acquire that many new products to show you, but recently, I've just been feeling a bit blah towards beauty stuff I use on a daily basis. Let's overanalyze together.

At the recent Sephora spring VIB sale, I was hard pressed to find ANYTHING I wanted to buy. Well, there was an Amore Pacific $24 duo with the Treatment Enzyme Peel that looked tempting (and useful enough as I just run out of all my other powder exfoliants) and then I figured I could also get some hair goo to style my pixie. That still (especially with the discount) landed me short of the free shipping threshold, and after agonizing for a day or two, I convinced my sister-in-law to choose something for herself so I could place the order. Yeah. In the end, the hair goo was a fail and I sent it back, and in retrospect, I should have just skipped the sale altogether.

My daily make-up tray (an organizer drawer, really)

This whole conundrum though serves as a good example of my general feelings towards beauty products. It's not just that I don't want to purchase anything new, there isn't really anything new that's tempting. Furthermore, I experience a big fat 'MEH' when using most of the products in my daily make-up tray. In the past, I would have swiftly dealt with my ennui by going on a make-up shopping spree so that I could feel excited again about my renewed routine. However, most likely because of project panning/ limiting spending/ decluttering stuff for the past couple years, I'm currently under no illusion that a nice big haul would actually solve anything in the long run, as I would eventually bore of the newer products too, and start lemming something else again, and again, and again...

So I've been doing a lot of soul searching to figure out the exact reason why I feel so ambivalent about my make-up routine. Here's what I came up with: firstly, I think my style/ tastes have changed a lot since having a baby (or because of *cough cough*... age?). Secondly, at the moment I'm rather unhappy with the condition of my skin and how make-up looks and lasts on my face.

As to the first reason, a great portion of the products I own now seem very much over the top for my day wear make-up preferences. While trying to finish a pencil eyeliner recently, I more or less decided that I dislike lining my top lash line, and will only occasionally use a pencil to tightline. Furthermore, I don't even like wearing eyeshadow all that much (and as a consequence haven't been tempted by ANY eyeshadow palette releases, which used to be my downfall in the past), and when I do, I like it to be quite subtle and simple, as in no strong metallic finishes, no dark smokey shades, no colorful brights. I also don't want to wear bright bold shades on my lips either, as you were probably able to surmise from my 'Keep or Declutter' series. I'm definitely leaning towards 'less is more' approach towards make-up looks these days, and frankly it's not at all due to the 'new mom' lack of time to do my make-up - Julian naps like a champ in the mornings and even when he's up, I can usually set him to play on his activity mat and have a good 20 minutes (with some interruptions when he gets too bored and shrieks for attention) to do my face.

I've also been wearing my pre-reformulation bottle of Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation and the Viva Glam Cyndi lipstick.

I was debating whether my current 'Shop My Stash' make-up favorites were even worth sharing, but hey ho, maybe you've also owned these products for years and need a little reminder about how good they are. You may remember that I tried to use up my Clarins Instant Light Natural Lip Perfector in 01 Rose Shimmer in a Project Pan, and  a year (or more?) later it's still going strong. And you know what, I'm not mad at it, I still think it's a fantastic, plushy, moisturizing gloss formula. I'm also still into the Clinique Cheek Pop blush texture, although I've gotten rid of Pansy Pop (reviewed here), which I deemed not that flattering on my skintone, and have been reaching for Heather Pop all the time instead. My current favorite mascara is Max Factor Masterpiece Max in Velvet Black, which I strongly disliked the first two weeks after opening and was *this close* to pitching it in the trash, but I decided to give it one more go some time later and now I'm really liking the combo of natural volume & separation.

The second reason for the beauty blahs - the pitiful condition of my skin - is what pushed me to re-examine my current routine and search for better solutions. I'd say that for the past year or so, I have been predominantly using skincare from my back-up stash, and largely products I was sent for review that were patiently waiting for their turn. The thing is, my skin was different during pregnancy than it is now, and even extrapolating from that, probably a good portion of the products I had stashed away wasn't even suited for my skin in the first place. All that coupled with changing hormones and possibly the introduction of adapelene (Differin) into my routine has wreaked havoc and my skin is currently impossibly clogged, oily and prone to painful under the skin bumps that never come to a head, and when they finally do go down, I'm left dealing with the red P.I.E. aftermath.

Aaand... That's not even everything I bought.

So... I binged on some Korean beauty skincare videos and have been digging up lots of information from the Asian Beauty reddit, and inevitably, shopping ensued. It will obviously take me a good long while to incorporate these new additions into my routine, test them out thoroughly and report back to you, but I do plan on reviewing these products for you in the near future. Yay! I'm excited to see whether I can get my skin back on track with their help.

I think that's about it for my little beauty update. I have plenty of ideas for posts and more products to review than I can find the energy and time, but I'm doing the best I can. What's been floating your beauty boat recently? Or have you redirected your enthusiasm towards some other non beauty related pursuit?

No Fuss Skincare Routine: Paula's Choice Hydralight Range Review*

This is a sponsored post in collaboration with Pretty In My Pocket. The products featured were provided free of charge by Paula's Choice for review consideration.

I was beyond excited when Pretty In My Pocket presented me with the opportunity to test out a custom skincare routine from Paula's Choice. Long-time readers of the blog will know that Paula's Choice is a brand that I trust when it comes to effective cruelty, fragrance and dye-free products suitable for sensitive skin and acne, which I've been struggling with most of my life. Paula's Choice also kindly offered me a personal email consultation with one of their skincare experts, but the great thing about their website is that this perk isn't just reserved for bloggers or VIPs - it's free and available for anyone who desires to find the best Paula's products to suit their skin's needs - just call 1-800-831-4088. Paula's Choice also offers 100% Money Back guarantee within 60 days if you're not completely satisfied with any of their products.

During my email exchange with Holly, their fabulous specialist, I was asked about my skin type (normal, dry, oily, combination/dry or combination/oily) and skin concerns (acne, dehydration, hyperpigmentation, fine lines, eczema etc.). I diagnosed myself as combination sensitive, and told Holly I've had problems with some acne spots and clogged pores as well as sun spots and post-acne hyperpigmentation. Taking my feedback into consideration, Holly chose for me the Hydralight Advanced Kit for Normal, Combination and Oily Sensitive Skin ($99 for 5 products), and added in another exfoliator to help with my pores, the RESIST Smoothing Treatment with 5% AHA, as well as their C15 Super Booster to fight my hyperpigmentation. I promptly received all these products on October 20th (yes, exactly a month ago!), emptied my bathroom cabinet of all other skincare bits, and started following my custom routine as shown below. Here's are my thoughts:

1. Hydralight One Step Face Cleanser ($25 for 16 oz): The Hydralight Cleanser is a non-foaming gel geared towards sensitive as well as combination and oily skin types. The two main ingredients are moisturizing glycerin and sodium laureth sulfate, a cleansing agent, as well as repairing niacinamide, soothing allantoin and hydrating sodium hyaluronate. I used this cleanser by applying it onto a damp face, massaging it around in circular motions, and rinsing off or removing with a warm washcloth. Mind you, I did not use it to remove heavy make-up - I always use a separate cleansing oil for that - but I tried it on light make-up one day (just concealer and blush) and it got it off without any trouble. I found the gel texture the most similar to Dermalogica Ultracalming cleanser, if you've ever tried that; but basically, it does feel a little bit like washing your face with just glycerin, which I quite like :)

According to Beautypedia, the second ingredient in this cleanser, sodium laureth sulfate, is a gentle detergent that's suitable even for the most sensitive skins, while sodium lauryl sulfate is the extra harsh, irritating ingtedient we should aim to avoid in our skincare (read more about sulfates on Beautypedia here). I can't verify that - but in the past three years, I've taken to avoiding both ingredients, as well as any foaming face washes just to be on the safe side and try to protect my skin's acid mantle as much as I can. So I'm not entirely sure if I've now become allergic to sodium laureth sulfate or if it was something else in this cleanser, but unfortunately, during the three weeks I've used it day and night, my skin freaked out. It became dry, tight and red, and I developed a lot (and I mean a lot) of clogged pores on my forehead. In the last week of testing the Hydralight routine, I replaced the One Step Cleanser with the Andalou Apricot Probiotic Cleansing Cream, and I've now pretty much got the situation under control. So unfortunately, while I quite enjoyed the Paula's Choice Cleanser to begin with, it turned out not to work for my skin - but your experience may of course vary.

2. Hydralight Toner ($20 for 6.4 oz): The Hydralight Toner is a lightweight liquid meant to normalize combination skin and calm down redness. It contains a lot of botanical antioxidants like green tea extract and grape seed extract, as well as willow herb and allantoin to soothe and sodium hyaluronate and glycerin to hydrate. I've found it to be a very nice refreshing toner, and it became especially important in my routine after the misshap with the cleanser; it made my skin feel a lot more comfortable and soft right away. If I could change one thing about it though, I would repackage it into a spray bottle (well, I actually did that for my own use by decanting a little bit into a travel spray bottle); but that's my preference for all hydrating toners as I dislike rubbing my face with too many cotton pads. I do very much enjoy this toner and will continue to use it in my every day routine.

3. Hydralight Moisture-Infusing Lotion ($28 for 2 oz): The Hydralight Lotion is a light moisturizer meant to soothe sensitive and combination & oily skin, and it's suitable for use around the eyes. The ingredients include emollients such as caprylic/ capric triglycerine, squalane and glycerin, soothing oat kernel extract and a whole skew of antixodiants such as Vitamin E & C as well as superoxide dismutase. I'm always slightly skeptical when trying out new moisturizers as most of them leave me very greasy, but I was pleasantly surprised after using the Hydralight Lotion - it absorbs very quickly and leaves no shine behind, just plump, moisturized, happy skin. Even though I was advised to use this mostly at night, when my skin was feeling particularly dry I would sneak this into my morning routine as well, as I found the Lotion to be more moisturizing and soothing on my skin than the Mineral Complex; it almost has a cooling effect when you massage it into your skin. I give it two thumbs up!

4. Hydralight Shine-Free Daily Mineral Complex SPF 30 ($28 for 2 oz): The Hydralight Mineral Complex is a moisturizing mineral sunscreen (zinc oxide 6%, titanium dioxide 2.32 %) for the daytime, enriched with anti-irritants such as licorice root extract and allantoin. It's a white lotion with a siliconey texture that should be familiar to all physical sunscreen users; mind you, the Mineral Complex is thicker than Japanese/ Korean- inspired liquid sunscreens in shake-up bottles and more like your traditional 'Western' sunscreen. I was very impressed with the blendability of this sunscreen and the matte finish it left on the skin, which lasted through most of the day even on my very oily nose. I do find that it leaves a bit of a white cast especially when you first apply it, like most mineral sunscreens tend to do, but on my fair skin it wasn't very noticeable and didn't interfere with my make-up. Compared to the Paula's Choice RESIST sunscreen I've been using this summer, I think the Hydralight Mineral Complex is marginally heavier in texture, but I'd say I like them both about the same, and find them very effective in terms of UV protection.

5. Skin Perfecting 1% BHA Lotion ($26 for 3.3 oz): My Paula's Choice consultant advised me to use the BHA Lotion in the mornings, or alternating it with the RESIST 5% AHA, discussed below. In the past, I've tried both the BHA Gel and the BHA Liquid in the 2% strength. The 1% BHA Lotion is aimed at more sensitive skin, hence its inclusion in the Hydralight Kit, and claims to unclog pores and mild bumps for normal and slightly dry skin types. I was a bit hesitant to try it as my skin certainly isn't dry, but I found the Lotion to be very lightweight and fast absorbing - on me, it's actually significantly lighter in feel than the viscous BHA Liquid. The Lotion helps to keep my pores clear and even out my skintone, but at the moment, I need to pair it with a slightly heavier moisturizer to help with seasonal dryness.

6. RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment with 5% AHA ($32 for 1.7 oz): Compared to the 1% BHA Lotion, the RESIST AHA Treatment is a significantly higher price point, but that's because it contains more anti-aging ingredients such as peptides, curcuminoids (antixoidants derived from turmeric) and ceramides. It's recommended for dry skin types, and I did find it to be more comfortable and nourishing on my skin than the 1% BHA Lotion. The Daily Smoothing Treatment is a pale yellow lotion with a silky texture that absorbs nicely into the skin. On the days I had more irritation/ active spots on my forehead, I experienced a little bit of stinging upon application, but that would go away quickly and I haven't noticed any extra redness in my skin because of that. In terms of effectiveness on my face, I think the AHA Treatment and the BHA Lotion were pretty close, but I do marginally prefer the Treatment for now - I'd have to test them both more extensively for a longer period of time to really compare the results though. All in all, I'm quite impressed with the unclogging, brightening and plumping effects of the Daily Smoothing Treatment, and I will continue to reach for it in my everyday routine.

7. RESIST C15 Super Booster ($48 for 0.67 oz): All of the Paula's Choice RESIST Super Boosters are packaged in little glass bottles with a dropper and are meant to be used as add-ons to your regular routine to target specific concerns: the Hyaluronic Acid Booster for dehydration, the Renewal Oil for moisture, the new Retinol one to firm and prevent fine lines, and lastly my C15 to fight hyperpigmentation and dark spots as well as brighten the skin. You can either use them alone, like a serum, or mix them into your moisturizer or lotion. The C15 Super Booster contains 15% of ascorbic acid (according to Beautypedia, the most effective but difficult to stabilize form of Vitamin C) as well as Vitamin E, ferulic acid and octapeptide.

The texture of this product is very liquidy and feels almost like an extremely lightweight oil that sinks into my skin immediately with no residue whatsoever. A lot of Paula's Choice fans have commented on the strange smell of this product, and while I have to agree it's not very pleasant as you're applying it (to me, it smells a bit like mayo?), the scent doesn't linger and doesn't really bother me in the least. If you've been a regular reader of my blog for a while, you know that I really enjoy having a Vitamin C serum in my routine and have tried a lot of different ones in the past. I have to say that the Paula's Choice C15 is definitely in my top three; after four weeks of using it every night, I have noticed an improvement in my freckles/ sun spots, and my post-acne hyperpigmentation marks fade significantly faster. It may seem like the C15 Booster is very expensive for the small amount you're getting in the bottle, but ascorbic acid products need to be used quickly after opening (the C15 Booster has a three month shelf life, according to the packaging), otherwise they start to oxidize and may actually do more harm than good to your skin - so I decided to go ahead and also use the Booster on my hands and chest, which always get the most sun damage. I really like this Booster and would consider repurchasing next time I'm in the market for a Vitamin C product.

Whew, that was a lot of information, wasn't it? I'm sorry if you found this a little wordy, but I like to give you pros and cons about each product I'm reviewing so that it's more helpful when you're making the decision to purchase (or not). As far as my overall thoughts after following this routine exclusively for four weeks, I'm very happy that I got to try these products, because I feel that they taught me more about my own skin. What I specifically mean is that I didn't realize my skin was so prone to dehydration and dryness; I previously thought my skin was more combination/oily, but right now I would say that it's probably leaning more combination/dry. Due to the dryness I've been experiencing by following the Hydralight routine to a T, I broke down after three weeks and reintroduced a very basic hydrating serum (Hada Labo Hyaluronic Acid Lotion) to layer under my moisturizer - and I even think I could amp up the nourishment a little bit more from there by adding in a facial oil at night. By switching out my cleanser and adding in an extra hydrator, my face is already feeling a lot more comfortable, and the bumps on my forehead have started to go away.

So while not all of the products I was recommended worked out for me, I did very much enjoy clearing out my medicine cabinet of all the extraneous bottles to follow this simplified, no fuss routine for a month. I will continue to use all of these products with the exception of the One Step Cleanser, and while I currently have products from other lines to supplement what I lacked in my Paula's Choice regime, I absolutely think I could customize the Hydralight routine further with other Paula's Choice products such as the RESIST Hydrating Cleanser,  Hyaluronic Acid or Renewal Oil Boosters. Paula's Choice continues to be one of my favorite affordable skincare lines, and I'm so glad to have had the opportunity to road test more of their products. Have you ever followed a skincare routine with products from just one brand? What are your favorite Paula's Choice products? If you've been thinking about placing a PC order, don't forget to use my code PRIMPFALL20 for 20% off your purchase and free shipping - and get on that discount now, the code expires Dec 31st 2015!

PS. You can read even more reviews on Paula's Choice as well as hundreds more brands on the Pretty In My Pocket app, which you can download here: http://www.prettyinmypocket.com/download

Revisited: Paula's Choice CLEAR Extra-Strength Anti-Redness Exfoliating Solution

It wasn't that long ago that I reviewed one of the cult products in the Paula's Choice range, the Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid - and while I thought it was a decent acid toner, I wasn't blown away. However, when I recently won MegsMakeup8's generous Paula's Choice giveaway on Instagram, I decided to try another liquid exfoliant from Paula's range: the CLEAR Extra Strength Anti-Redness Exfoliating Solution with 2% Salicylic Acid ($28 for 4 oz/ 118 ml).

I've said in the title that it's a revisited product because honestly, I don't know how the CLEAR Exfoliating Solution differs from the BHA Liquid. The salicylic content is exactly the same, the ingredients are the same, the texture is the same, so it's a bit confusing why Paula would have two exact same formulations marketed as two distinct products - please let me know if I'm wrong on this, but for now my understanding is that the two products are one and the same.

The CLEAR line, aimed at acne-prone skin, is all packaged in pretty blue bottles, and the Exfoliating Solutions come in two strengths, 1% and 2% salicylic acid (BHA). As you know, I'm a long-time hydroxy acid user, so I chose the Extra-Strength, hoping to get a more noticeable result. I've been using the Solution for the past two weeks, having replaced my usual First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads with it at night time.

The Extra-Strength Solution is a clear, fragrance-free liquid I use in the acid tone step of my evening skincare routine. Even though it's a transparent liquid, it does not feel like water on the skin - it's a bit thicker than water and has a bit of slip to it, leaving a somewhat oily film on the face, which is why I reserve it for use at night. In the past, I quite disliked the texture and feel of this product on my face, but since my skin has gotten a bit drier this past year, I actually don't mind it as much anymore. Now it feels like the liquid is a bit more nourishing, and maybe the ingredients that provide that slip in this formula also help to cushion the skin against the possible dryness from the salicylic acid.

In terms of results, I can already see a bit of an improvement in my skin after switching from the FAB pads (and don't get me wrong, I still love that product! Simply taking a bit of a break). Most of the bumpy texture I've had on my forehead for the past month has disappeared already, my pores are overall clearer, and my whole face looks a lot more even in tone. I've also haven't had any significant breakouts in those two weeks, and the two tiny whiteheads I got where gone within a couple days without leaving any marks. I'm quite impressed! Another interesting thing about the CLEAR Solution is that somehow it still manages to pick up dirt from my face even after double cleansing with oils and balms; I think the oilier texture dissolves the last traces better than a regular toner, or maybe the product is already pulling some gunk from the pores.

I'm quite happy that I gave this product another chance - I don't know if it's something I have to have on hand at all times, but I think it's a nice one to rotate in and out of my routine once in a while. It just goes to show how our impressions of products change according to the condition of our skin. In that same order, I also got the RESIST Exfoliant, which I believe Claire has told me doesn't have that slippy texture, so it'd be an interesting one to compare - stay tuned for the review! As for this CLEAR one, I would especially recommend it if you're struggling with uneven texture, but your skin is more on the normal to slightly combination side, and prone to dehydration. For oilier-skinned folks, I don't think the slightly oily residue of the Exfoliating Solution would feel very pleasant. Have you tried any of the Paula's Choice AHA or BHA exfoliants? Which one is your favorite?

My 5 Basic Principles for Clearer, Happier Skin (with Product Recommendations)

I've already mentioned here and there on the blog that unexpectedly, my skin has been gradually clearing up for about six months now. I've been struggling with acne half of my life, and for all the lotions, potions, elimination diets and frequent trips to the dermatologist, the only thing that has ever worked to dramatically improve my skin were antibiotics; however, as soon as I stopped taking them (as you should after about a year long course), the problem was back with a vengeance, including painful cystic breakouts mostly along the jawline, upper neck and chin.

Yes, one would easily diagnose my acne must have been hormone-related, but hormones are stubborn, complicated buggers. No standard prescriptions worked for me, and as I was not willing to agree to more invasive methods, I pretty much gave up hope and tried to learn to accept the breakouts, oilies, redness and uneven skin texture. What I did focus on instead was improving my skincare routine, which is what I'll be sharing with you today - but while I absolutely believe that incorporating these steps helped to balance and heal my skin, I have to admit that I also think something must have changed inside my body, without any interference from outside factors. I'm 28 now, and I've heard in the past that a lot of women experience skin changes in their late twenties. For many, that change may mean new problems with dryness or the appearance of first fine lines, for me, it has meant significantly clearer and more even skin, and a less oily/ more balanced T-zone.

At any rate - if you're still struggling with acne, these are the five most important and effective changes I've made to my routine for happier skin. I've talked about these on the blog in the past, but I thought it may be more helpful for you to have everything in one place; there's lots of links to other skincare posts in each section, should you need more information. Alrighty then!

1. Cream, Milk, Oil and Balm Cleansers
After about three years of using mostly cream and balm cleansers on my skin, I'm a firm believer in avoiding any and all foaming face washes. I've used both really harsh, sulfate-based ones (in my teens), as well as the more gentle, soap-free options (in my twenties, after I came to my senses), but to be honest, I find both types significantly inferior to just about any cream, balm or oil cleanser I've tried so far. Not only are the foams way more drying, as well as potentially disrupting your skin's acid mantle, they're just not that great at actually cleansing the skin - my face just feels so much better after a nice massage with a creamy/oily/balmy cleanser, properly removed with a warm wash cloth. No squeaking, no tightness, no residue, no irritation; seriously, why would I even want to go back to foaming cleansers?

I try new cream, oil and balm cleansers all the time, but so far, my favorites are the REN Evercalm Gentle Cleansing Milk ($28 for 5.1 fl oz./ 150ml, full review here, currently using), TATCHA One Step Camellia Cleansing Oil ($48 for 150 ml/5.1 fl oz, full review here, used up but haven't repurchased yet because of the higher price), Emma Hardie Amazing Face Moringa Cleansing Balm ($63 for 100ml, full review here, also haven't repurchased due to the price/ availability) and Alaffia Facial Cleanser Antioxidant Rooibos and Shea Butter ($13.95 for 3.4 fl. oz; reviewed here - I used it a very long time ago and kind of forgot about it... it's been repackaged into a tube now).

If you've been thinking about giving cream/ balm cleansers a try but have been hesitant because of the high price tag of the most hyped-up ones, there's a lot of affordable options now from The Body Shop and many natural skincare brands (including Alaffia). I believe it's more important to simply stop using foaming washes rather than worry if you have the absolute best cream/ balm cleanser available on the market. I'm currently trying out a new-to-me inexpensive cream cleanser from Andalou Naturals, look out for my review in a couple weeks' time.

2. Double Cleansing
Oh no, we're not finished with cleansing yet - because a properly cleansed face is the basis of your entire skincare routine. I always double cleanse my face in the evening if I'm wearing sunscreen and/or make-up. Seriously. Even after a thorough massage with your first cleanser (usually an oil or balm for me), you'd be surprised at how much gunk still remains on your face - but then again, those SPFs and foundations aren't meant to be removed easily.

I know there are subtleties here and some will debate which products are more suited for each step of the cleanse, but essentially, the most important part is simply to cleanse twice, and remove the cleanser each time with a warm wash cloth (I always do several passes, rinsing the cloth in-between) - you could use one and the same cream/ oil/ balm cleanser for this. I like to use a basic cleansing oil first, and follow with a more luxurious cream or balm, but again, you don't have to. Just cleanse twice - any time you're wearing make-up or sunscreen.

3. Acid Toning
I couldn't possibly omit the acid tone from this round-up; it's a step I do twice a day, every day, no exception. In short, I think there are three most important factors to a successful acid tone, be it in the form of an AHA/ BHA or even LHA/ PHA toner, or exfoliating pads:
a) gentle but effective formulation (no alcohol, preferrably lower percentage of the acids, sufficiently low pH level),
b) consistency of usage (at least once a day - obviously I'm not talking here about folks who can't tolerate acids on their skin...),
c) following up with hydrating products and SPF during the day (to counteract possible dryness and prevent hyperpigmentation).

I've also mentioned in the past that I like to mix up my acids by rotating a couple different products in the acid toning step and sometimes using exfoliating masks (recent overview here) or an exfoliating serum, but that's not strictly necessary - you could just have one acid product on hand and use it both morning and night or just at night, depending on how your skin handles chemical exfoliation. So far, my favorite products for this step are the First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads ($30 for 60 pads, repurchased multiple times, review included in my overview of acid toners and pads here) and the Pixi Skintreats Glow Tonic ($29 for 250ml/ 8.25 fl oz, full review here).

For my somewhat sensitive skin prone to redness, I definitely prefer frequent chemical exfoliation over manual exfoliation once every couple days. However, if you're not seeing results from your acid toning and/or you've noticed that your serums and moisturizers are not absorbing properly into your skin, try a gentle (no apricot kernels please!) physical scrub once or twice a week - I like to lightly massage my face with a scrub and then follow with a mask for a more effective treatment. My current favorite manual exfoliators are the TATCHA Classic Rice Enzyme Powder ($65 for 60 g/2.1 oz, reviewed here) and the Andalou Naturals Clarifying Lemon Sugar Facial Scrub ($$11.99 for 1.7 oz/ 50 ml, reviewed here).

4. Hydration Sandwich
I briefly spoke about sandwiching hydrating products in my review of the Hada Labo Gokujyun Hyaluronic Acid Lotion, but here's the gist: layering hydrating toners/ essences/ lotions with serums and moisturizers helps to balance your skin, even out its tone and texture, and prevents surface dehydration as well as fine lines/ wrinkles in the future.

Even though in the past, I thought NOT using a moisturizer on my very oily skin could be a good idea (see this old post), I would never try that again - even (or especially) oily and combination skin types need some hydrating, but not necessarily moisturizing, products. I mean fine, you don't want to use a typical creamy moisturizer, especially in the morning when you wear an SPF anyway - go ahead, I have no problems with that. Just make sure you're using a hydrating serum (preferrably, with lots of hyaluronic acid), or, better yet, a hydrating spray toner followed with a serum, and monitor your skin for signs of dryness; you could always add a more nourishing moisturizer or face oil only at night if you don't like heavy layers on your face in the daytime. Your nicely hydrated face will feel and look softer, plumper and more even, your blemishes will heal quicker, and hopefully in due time, your sebum production will subside at least a little bit.

My favorite lightweight hydrating products include the above mentioned Rohto Hada Labo Gokujyun Hyaluronic Acid Lotion ($11- 20 for 5.7 fl. oz/ 170ml, full review here), Reviva Labs Hyaluronic Acid Serum ($22 for 1 0z./30ml, reviewed here) the Bioderma Hydrabio Serum Moisturizing Concentrate (around $20 for 40ml, mentioned here) and Andalou Naturals Probiotic + C Renewal Cream ($19.99 for 1.7 oz/ 50 ml, reviewed here), preceded by various water-based spritzes such as natural hydrosols (rosewater and rock rose/ Cistus flower water are my favorites), thermal spring waters (Vichy, Avene, you name it) or more complex toners like Nature Republic Bee Venom Mist Essence ($19.90 for 3.38 fl. oz/ 100ml, full review here) or the Dermalogica Ultracalming Mist ($34 for 6 fl oz/ 177 ml, reviewed here). Hydrating masks also work a charm when my skin needs an extra boost, my favorites are various Asian sheet masks as well as the Laneige Water Sleeping Mask ($23 for 80ml/ 2.7 fl oz, recently reviewed here) and the Andalou Naturals 1000 Roses Rosewater Mask ($14.95 for 1.7 fl oz, reviewed here).

5. No picking
As a long-standing skin picker, this last point is something I struggle with the most. While I don't really get whiteheads or larger breakouts any more, I still have a lot of blackheads and quite a few clogged pores, and the urge to get them out of my skin is sometimes too strong to resist. I believe that the internal motivation of a picker and the reasoning behind attacking your own face is that you're 'helping' your skin by getting rid of a stubborn clog, and that once removed, it should heal much faster. And yes, sometimes that's true - but please think about all the other times your picking caused the breakout to get much worse, or to spread into more breakouts in the same area, or it scarred badly and you're still bearing the battle marks today.

Do whatever it takes to minimize, and hopefully completely stop, your picking habit - get rid of magnifying mirrors, don't step too close to a mirror, use lower lighting in the bathroom, set a timer for how much time you're spending at the sink, get artificial nails - doesn't matter, just do it. Picking is a bad habit but habits can be changed, even when they're coping mechanisms. Be present and be mindful for your skin, and it will thank you.

Aaand... that's it! Hopefully, this long and wordy post was helpful to you; please let me know if you have any questions and I shall do my best to answer them. We all wish for better skin, and sometimes what works for one person won't do a thing for the next - but if you're looking to change your routine, these may just be some basic ideas worth considering. Now tell me, regardless of your particular skin struggles - be it irritation, dryness, breakouts - what was the single thing you introduced into your routine that has given you the best results? I'd love to know!

New In My Skincare Routine

As my stash downsizing progress continues, I'm now getting down to skincare back-ups and otherwise abandonded products from the back of my drawers. Some of them are surprisingly good, and thus restore my faith in trying deluxe samples and gifts with purchase. Some of them are meh; they'll get used up in due time, but the excitement levels are running low. And some of them... NO. Just no. But anyway, all of these serve the purpose of reviewing them for you, lovely people, so that you know what to try and what to avoid.

While I do most of my face washing with the Emma Hardie Moringa Lift & Sculpt Cleansing Balm, I sometimes prefer something lighter and quicker for the mornings: enter MyChelle Dermaceuticals Apple Brightening Cleanser ($14.25 for 2.1 fl oz) with malic and gallic acids, which was part of a GWP from drugstore.com. A quick shopping tip: if you're subscribed to their email offers, they sometimes do these amazing GWP bags with a $75 beauty purchase that come loaded with deluxe samples AND full-sized products. But back to MyChelle: I find this sulfate, gluten and cruelty-free face wash to be a decent low-foaming option; quite gentle but a bit more drying than an oil/balm cleanser. I haven't noticed any improvement in my hyperpigmentation, but I've recently been experiencing less breakouts and less overall congestion in my skin - not quite sure if it's thanks to just this cleanser, but I think it's helping along. A tentative thumbs-up.

To remove my make-up at night, I've switched to using the Eau Thermale Avene Micellar Lotion Cleanser and Make-up Remover ($20 for 6.76 fl oz/ 200 ml) after finishing the beautiful TATCHA One Step Camellia Cleansing Oil. In short: I ultimately prefer using cleansing oils for make-up removal. Not that the Avene micellar water is bad: non-irritating, subtly scented, doesn't leave a sticky residue. But in terms of really getting that black mascara and eyeliner off, nothing beats a solid cleansing oil. I now have to do multiple passes with a cotton pad saturated with the Avene lotion, and I still get smudges of mascara under my eyes in the mornings - so from now on, I won't be repurchasing micellar make-up removers (even Bioderma!) and sticking to my cleansing oils.

Tempted by rave reviews from Sandra and other bloggers, I splurged on the Paula's Choice Resist BHA 9 Treatment For Stubborn Imperfections ($40 for 0.3 fl oz/ 8.4 ml). First off, let's discuss the price: this is forty bucks for a product smaller than most of my deluxe samples. But whatever, it's supposed to be used as a spot treatment, so the tiny bottle should last a long time - EXCEPT the pump makes it impossible to get just a small amount, squirting product left and right. To get the amount I need, I barely touch the pump a couple times, and then a drop oozes out... but misshaps still happen. I could maybe suck it up if this clear oil (sic!) made any difference in my skin - but it doesn't. On me, it doesn't really prevent breakouts from rearing their ugly heads, doesn't dry them out, doesn't help with clogs and blackheads, nor post-inflammatory marks... Yeah. It's just annoying. Needless to say, I'll use it up but won't be repurchasing.

On days I'm at home and don't feel the need to wear SPF, I like to use just a plain, lightweight moisturizer to give my skin some much needed hydration, which is why I busted out the Dermo Face Sebio Light Mattifying Correcting Cream (32,99 PLN/ ~$10 for 40ml) from a Polish brand Tołpa. The moisturizer was a gift from a family member, and while a lot of Polish skincare products are great quality and a pleasure to use, this is unfortunately a dud. It has a strong, citrus bathroom cleaner scent and a glue-like consistency that eventually absorbs into the skin, but feels heavy and fails to both effectively hydrate my face or keep the oils at bay. Thank God it expires next month so that I won't have any second thoughts about throwing it away.

Lastly, the surprising hero of this post, the Fresh Lotus Youth Preserve Face Cream with Super 7 Complex* ($42 for 1.7 oz or $16.50 for 0.5 oz, which is the size I'm using). I didn't have high hopes for this, especially after sniffing the jar: to me, it smells like a fermented/pickled cucumber with a touch of rose, and while I like both pickles and roses, I don't want them together in my moisturizer. But that is the only downfall of the Lotus Face Cream - otherwise, it's a lovely, lightweight, fast-absorbing, hydrating and soothing cream that leaves my face soft, plump and happy. I can't comment on longterm anti-aging results, but I like that it has ingredients to soften fine lines, improve elasticity and boost radiance. Two thumbs up - I may repurchase a full size in the future.

Have you recently added anything new to your skincare routine? Any interesting discoveries, positive OR negative? Come on, you guys know I love me a good product rant ;)

Disclosure: Product marked with an asterix (*) is a press sample I received as a part of a complimentary Glossybox. The remaining products were either gifts from family, gifts with purchase or my own purchases. All links are non-affiliate. All opinions are 100% honest and unbiased, no matter if the products featured were purchased with my own monies or provided as free press samples. Thank you for reading!

In My Skincare Routine: Acid Toners & Exfoliating Pads Overview

Exfoliating toners or pads with AHAs and/or BHAs are one step in my skincare routine that I make sure not to skip. My combination skin gets clogged very easily, and at any given time I'm fighting both active breakouts, blackheads, various lumps and bumps as well as hyperpigmentation from past imperfections AND sun damage. I've been trying different products for the 'acid tone' stage of my routine for over a year now, and I thought I'd share my thoughts on the strength and effectiveness of the ones I tested, so you can navigate the choices a bit more easily if you're new to the daily exfoliating game.

First off, let's start with exfoliating pads. Remember the alcohol-laden drugstore pads from your teenage years of fighting acne? These are not very different in principle, but much kinder for your skin; I try to look for alcohol-free, fragrance-free pads with a short and sweet ingredients list whenever possible. In the order from the most gentle to the strongest:

First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads ($30 for 60 pads, contain lactic & glycolic acids, as well as cucumber, Indian gooseberry, lemon peel and licorice extracts, suitable for sensitive skin): If I had to choose my absolute favorite from the all the pads I tested, these would be it. These pads do exactly what it says on the packaging: smooth skin's texture, brighten its tone, tighten the pores, all in a non-drying, gentle, lightweight formula. The FAB Facial Radiance Pads are my favorite to use in the morning, because they don't aggravate my skin, and the actual liquid the pads are soaked in has a clear, fragrance-free, non-sticky and non-greasy formula. I do cut the pads in half, so I consider spending $30 every four months to be a reasonable price for happy, glowy skin. Will repurchase.

St. Ives Scrub-Free Exfoliating Pads ($5.99 for 60 pads, contain lactic acid, fruit extracts and Vitamin E, suitable for daily use and sensitive skin). I know - St. Ives of the peach kernels?! This is one of the very few alcohol-free drugstore options I was able to find, however scented with a fruit punch fragrance. In short, they're not bad: gentle, non-sticky, non-drying. However, they're not as effective as the First Aid Beauty Pads; I just don't feel that they keep clogs and breakouts at bay as well as the FAB ones. So yeah, I cheaped out, but they're just not as good. Still a good option if you're on a budget or deciding whether exfoliating pads are something you'd like to try.

Peter Thomas Roth Un-Wrinkle Peel Pads ($45 for 60 pads, contain glycolic, lactic, salicylic and linolenic acids, as well as aminoacids, Vitamins A, D, E, C and F, green tea, chamomile and aloe vera, suitable for daily use and all skintypes). Uhm, yeah, these are gooood - although better for evening use due to some reddening tingling and a somewhat greasier formula. Depending on your skintype, the brand suggests different frequency of usage, but I've gone with daily on my combination but sensitive skin and they've been working great. The instructions say to let the solution sit on the skin for a couple minutes and then rinse with water, but honestly, I just spritzed some hydrating toner on top and let it be. These unscented, alcohol-free Un-Wrinkle pads claim to minimize the pores, clarify the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and even out skintone. I can't vouch for fine lines, but my pores do seem tightened, the texture of my skin is smoother after use, and serums and moisturizers absorb better on top. I really like these pads, I just wish they were cheaper - and don't try to save by getting the less expensive PTR Max Complexion Correction Pads, as those contain both alcohol and fragrance.

Dr. Denis Gross Extra Strength Alpha Beta Peel Packettes ($145 for 60 two-step packettes, contain glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic, citric and salicylic acids in the first step, retinol, phospholipids, yarrow extract and various antioxidants in the second step; stronger version of their regular Alpha Beta Peel, suitable for all skin types). I looked high and low for information on how often you're supposed to use these pads (the regular strength ones can supposedly be used daily), and couldn't find anything - but in my experience, these are too strong to be used every day. Unfortunately, the first (exfoliating) step contains alcohol, and it does feel stingy and makes my face more red, but the whole routine isn't overly drying or harsh if used with caution. I whip these out once in a while at night, when my regular exfoliating pads/ toners are not quite cutting it in unclogging my pores. I think these packettes are effective, but the price point is a bit prohibitive; I'd rather spend less money on a good exfoliating mask that can be used many more times than these packettes.

Cane + Austin Retexturizing Treatment Pads 10% Glycolic ($60 for 60 pads, contain Vitamins A, C & E, coenzyme Q10, phospholipids, antioxidants, witch hazel, recommended for daily use and all skintypes). So I've only had a one-time use sample of these Cane + Austin pads, so I can't vouch for longterm results. While these pads have a simple enough ingredients list and contain no alcohol, they do contain ACETONE (and ammonia. Oh, and some menthol). Wait. WHAT?! The pad smelt like nail polish remover, stung my face and made me look red and sore. Pass.

Alpha-H Liquid Gold Power Peeling Pads (~$60 for 30 pads, unavailable in the US and possibly discontinued, contain 5% glycolic acid, glycerin, licorice extract and hydrolized silk, to be used every other night on the T-zone and problem areas). These are supposed to be soaked in the famous Alpha-H Liquid Gold exfoliant, and if that's the case, I'd better stay away. These do contain alcohol, and they sting and sensitize my skin. They did help to get rid of some flakes, but did nothing for my clogged pores and breakouts; well, maybe not nothing, actually made them look more red and angry. If Liquid Gold works for you, then great, but I wouldn't exactly recommend these for sensitive skin.

Now, acid toners! I've only tried two so far, and still have a couple more on my radar, so I'm sure I'll churn out an addendum to this overview once I test out more liquid stuff. Again, from the most gentle to the strongest:

Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid ($23 for 4 oz/118 ml, frequently available on sale for $18, contains salicylic acid, hydrating and absorption-enhancing methylpropanediol and green tea extract, fragrance and colorant-free, recommended for all skin types but especially combination/oily, to be used once or twice a day). I'm on the fence about the famous 2% BHA Liquid - on one hand, it's easy to use, non-irritating and non-drying, but on the other, it has a strange consistency that's slippy to the point of oily, and it doesn't seem as effective as First Aid Beauty or Peter Thomas Roth pads. I think this Paula's Choice exfoliant is a decent, gentle acid toner, but I wouldn't count on any miraculous results. Also, way better than Paula's gel BHA exfoliant.

Mario Badescu Glycolic Acid Toner ($18 for 8 oz, contains 2% glycolic acid, aloe vera and grapefruit extract, recommended for combination/dry skin types to be used twice a day). This alcohol-free but not fragrance or colorant-free toner worked very well for me in the beginning, but as the time went on, it started irritating my skin until I broke out in an itchy rash on my cheeks. Here's my full review in case you're curious about this product, but in short, I wouldn't recommend it for anyone with sensitive skin, and even if your skin isn't sensitive, please be cautious and don't use it more than once a day - it can definitely be drying if used more often.

Phew, that was a lot of information! I hope this comparison was helpful if you're looking into trying a daily exfoliant. My plan for tweaking the exfoliating step in my skincare routine is to repurchase the First Aid Beauty pads for use in the mornings, and look for another acid toner to alternate with Un-Wrinkle pads in the evenings - maybe the Pixi Glow Tonic, or the REN Clarimatte. What are your favorite exfoliating products?

Exfoliation for Sensitive Skin: Dr. Wu Intensive Renewal Serum with 18% Mandelic Acid

It's not the first and certainly not the last time I've been enabled to purchase a product because of  Driveller Kate's glowing recommendation; as it was the case with this dinky bottle of Dr. Wu Renewal System Intensive Renewal Serum with Mandelic Acid 18% ($28 for 0.5 fl oz/15 ml, I purchased mine on eBay; there's also a 6% concentration available).  Oh you frivolous Driveller, you! *shakes fist*

A couple months back, Kate shared an incredibly helpful post on hyperpigmentation-fighting skincare finds for folks with sensitive skin. In general terms, me and Kate have completely different skintypes, but we do share two common skin qualities: sensitivity and hyperpigmented areas (Kate has adorable freckles, I have less adorable freckles + post-inflammatory acne marks). I was actually planning to get my act together and share an overview/ comparison post of all the different brightening serums I've been trying, but this is (spoiler alert) too good to just sit on for the next couple months - so here it goes!

I think this is officialy the first time I'm trying a beauty product from an Asian brand; I'm normally too confused to try and make sense of the profusion of strange characters on the packaging, or even more confused after reading the machine-translated blurb in English. But soothed by another blogger's rave review, I didn't hesitate long to purchase; and I'm very glad I did! I can foresee some more forays into Asian brands in the future.

My Dr. Wu Intensive Renewal Serum with 18% Mandelic Acid came in a reassuringly foil-wrapped box printed with an expiration date. The English description for once actually makes a lot of sense, and you can also check the full ingredients list: the mandelic acid, derived from bitter almonds, is your exfoliating agent, but it also contains licorice extract to soothe redness and hyaluronic acid for extra hydration. The serum itself comes in a dark glass bottle with a dropper; this is a clear, very liquidy, water-like product, so the dropper is super handy.

I currently use the Mandelic Acid serum twice a week at night, alternating with Murad Rapid Age Spot and Pigment Lightening Serum with 2% Hydroquinone as another hyperpigmentation fighter and Bioderma Hydrabio Moisturising Concentrate every other day for soothing hydration. I put about 5-6 drops directly on my face (forehead, both cheeks, chin area) and lightly distribute with my fingertips, and then press in. This fragrance-free serum sinks in fast, leaving a slightly glowy, moisturized feel; it almost feels like there's something oily that gives a bit of slip to the formulation. I then wait about 20-30 minutes for the acid to do its work (read my book in bed), as per Kate's recommendation, and then follow up with a facial oil for overnight moisture. There is absolutely no tingling, stinging or burning, or even a slightest bit of redness - which is why in the beginning, I thought the serum wasn't doing anything for my skin. But I was wrong!

After using the serum for about two months now, I definitely see a difference to my skin. In the mornings after applying the serum, my skin is smoother, softer and looks more even. It's also nicely plump and hydrated, and there's no irritation in sight - it's perfectly balanced and prepped for make-up application. It seems like the exfoliating action is very, very mild; I've never seen any flakes or areas of dryness after using this serum. But I have seen an improvement in my post-inflammatory hyperpigmented marks: they seem to disappear and even out faster than when I'm just using my Murad Rapid Age Spot Serum, but I've yet to see any discernible results on my freckles.

I find it very interesting that I seem to get much better results on my skin from mild exfoliants geared towards sensitive skin (Dr. Wu Intensive Renewal Serum & First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads) versus stronger/ more concentrated exfoliants I'd tried in the past (prescription tretinoin, higher concentration glycolic acid). I think that maybe the inflammation and dehydrated skin I was getting after using those stronger exfoliants was in fact effectively counteracting any benefits I might have been getting from the active ingredient, and making my skin even more unbalanced, and thus prone to more redness and breakouts. I've recently learnt a hard lesson on overusing glycolics (Mario Badescu Glycolic Acid Toner) - my skin broke out in tiny itchy bumps on tops of my cheekbones and on my upper lip, and it actually looked rather close to eczema. I shoved that toner to the back of my cabinet, busted out Avene Cicalfate, and then slowly reintroduced my milder exfoliants - and thankfully the rash is gone now. But it was a valuable skincare lesson.

Anyway, to conclude this rather lengthy review: do check out Dr. Wu Intense Renewal Serum if your skin is sensitive and you're in need of some gentle but effective exfoliation. The small bottle should actually last you a pretty long time - I've had mine for over two months and I've maybe used up 1/6, so I think the price point is very reasonable. I will definitely repurchase once I run out - I now can't be without it! So thank you, master enabler Kate. What type of exfoliants do you use in your skincare routine? Do you have any favorites from Asian skincare brands?

Battling Breakouts: Spot Treatments Overview & Comparison

I've mentioned in passing recently that I had kind of stopped using spot treatments on a regular basis; well, with a discovery of a new product, I have picked it up again. This new favorite also spurred me to mentally catalogue all the other spot treatments I've tried over the years of battling acne, and compare the various types featuring different key ingredients and their effectiveness on my skin; very much like I did in this Overview of Spot Treatments post from over 2 years ago, but with updated products. As always, your experience may vary - but hopefully you'll find some new product ideas if breakouts are still the bane of your existence.

I've selected one specific product for each active ingredient, but I'll also give examples of other products with the same active and link to more detailed reviews where possible. Let's start with something I'm sure every acne sufferer must have tried at least once in their life:

Benzoyl Peroxide: Coral Actives Penetrating Acne Serum Gel with 6% Benzoyl Peroxide ($22.95 for 1 fl. oz/30 ml). When I first started experiencing acne breakouts in my teens, the first thing my dermatologist aunt prescribed me was a BP cream (but lower concentrations are available over the counter, as in the product shown). Benzoyl Peroxide generally works by killing acne bacteria on the skin's surface and speeding up cell turnover; quite a straightforward mechanism. However in my experience, BP never worked very well for my breakouts; it has helped somewhat with small bumps on my forehead, but never with pustules or cystic acne, which is what I primarily suffer with these days. It is also quite irritating and using it every day, or reapplying frequently, as you would a spot treatment, will cause dryness and peeling. Personally, this is my least favorite breakout-banishing active ingredient, but if it works for you, products like Bioelements Breakout Control Emergency Blemish Lotion or Clean & Clear Persa-gel are another option; both are more irritating though than the Coral Actives Acne Serum Gel.

Sulfur: Mario Badescu Drying Cream ($14 for 0.5 oz, deluxe sample pictured here). Sulfur combats acne by sloughing off dead skin cells, and it's also a potent anti-inflammatory. The downside is that it smells (ashtray/rubber tires/eggs/farts are just a few things it's most often compared to), and it is quite drying on the skin. It does work on deep down cystic blemishes over the course of a few days, but always leaves a dry, flaky patch that's quite difficult to conceal. I also like to apply it on a naughtily popped blemish to calm down the inflammation (sorry - gross), but overall haven't reached for it in quite a long time now. Other options: Mario Badescu Drying Lotion or De La Cruz Sulfur Ointment.

Tea Tree Essential Oil: Desert Essence 100% Australian Tea Tree Oil ($11.99 for 1 fl. oz, available in three sizes). Tea Tree Essential Oil is a powerful antiseptic, antiviral and anti-inflammatory ingredient. In a 2012 study by National Health Institutes, 5% of TTEO has been shown to be as effective in treating mild to moderate acne as 5% benzoyl peroxide. It's a matter of discussion whether tea tree eo can be applied neat to the skin or whether it should always be diluted to avoid irritation - I'd recommend doing a patch test and treading with care if you're sensitive. For me personally, pure tea tree essential oil doesn't prove very effective, but I do quite like it as an ingredient in more complex formulations. Other options to try: many other essential oils have antiseptic properties, most notably lavender essential oil - especially nice if you dislike the scent of tea tree.

Natural Base Oils + Essential Oils Blends: Osmia Organics Spot Treatment* ($20 for 0.16 oz, official packaging looks different - my now sadly gone bottle was a press sample). An oil-based spot treatment blends various essential oils with vegetable oils (if you're confused, read my post on oils here) for a natural, gentler acne-fighting alternative; Osmia's version combines lavender, cajeput, lemon, parsley, thyme, cypress and rosemary in a base of evening primrose oil. It works very well on soothing red, angry bumps without drying out the skin, but it's not the fastest solution in the world, and the oily texture works best overnight. Still, I used every last drop of mine and now I'm sorely tempted to try my hand at a DIY oil spot treatment. Other option: Angel Face Botanicals Blemish Soother.

Kaolin/ Bentonite Clay: Origins Clear Improvement Active Charcoal Mask to Clear Pores ($17 for 1.7 fl. oz/ 50ml or $24 for 3.4 fl. oz/100ml). Clay masks are not spot treatments per se, but they do work quite well in soothing the skin and either supressing a newly forming spot, or bringing things to a head. I quite like to use the Origins Clear Improvement as a targeted blemish mask when I'm home alone (it's almost worse to scare your significant other with black blemishes rather than normal red ones), and it does speed up the recovery process when combined with other spot treatments - but again on its own, not the most effective on my skin. Other options: any clay-based face mask really, I also like this Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay.

Salicylic Acid (BHA)/ Also AHAs or LHAs: Aesop Control ($23 for 0.2 fl oz). Salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid, remains possibly the most recommended active ingredient for acne-prone skin. It works by not only sloughing off the top layer of skin, but also getting into the pore and helping to unclog it. Hydroxy acids are the most effective acne-fighting active ingredients for my skin, although finding a non-irritating formulation can be a bit of a struggle. Control by Aesop is my new favorite: a clear geal combining salicylic & lactic acid (AHA) with niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and sodium ascorbyl phosphate (stable, water-soluble form of Vitamin C) in a non-drying aloe vera base, it can be applied under or over make-up. It gently exfoliates the blemish away, soothes inflamed skin and helps with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation marks. I highly recommend trying this if you suffer from hormonal cystic acne. Other, less favored options: La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo, Dermalogica Overnight Clearing Gel.

Do you use spot treatments? Which active ingredients are the most effective on your skin?

Disclaimer: The product marked with asterix (*) is a press sample I received from Osmia Organics for review consideration. I purchased all the other products myself, or received them as a gift with purchase. All opinions are 100% honest and unbiased, no matter if the products featured were purchased with my own monies or provided as a free press sample. Thank you for reading!

Fine-tuning My Skincare Routine

For the past two months or so, I'd noticed the condition of my skin gradually deteriorating into the hormonal, congested, flaky, irritated territory. I was at a loss - I was already using gentle, quality skincare products, taking supplements, spending time pampering my skin; surely there's little more a woman can do, right? Wrong! About a week ago I chanced upon an old 'Routines Cheat Sheet' by the indelible Mrs Hirons (whom I've adored and silently stalked on social media for what... 4 years now? Holla, #TBT!) and it spurred me to really fine-tune my skincare routine. Mind you, it's not that I didn't read the cheat sheet when Caroline first posted it... but turns out, I didn't really really read it.

So here's a little overview of my skincare bad habits, some changes I've already introduced into my routine and more changes I hope to incorporate in the near future. I'm already seeing results from these tiny tweaks: my skin is calmer, less red and congested, plumper and more hydrated. I'm hoping there's something here you too might have overlooked and could change in your skincare routine!

1. Cleansing. If there's just one thing Caroline will impress on you, it's the importance of properly cleansing your skin. We're talking absolutely no foaming cleansers, nice balmy textures applied on dry skin, removed with a hot washcloth (stupidly in the past, I thought she was referring to flannels as an actual fabric... and bought some baby flannel wipes that I still need to replace with just your plain old terry washcloths), as well as double cleansing. I have chucked most foaming face washes a while ago but I sometimes failed at double cleansing and using a cloth to remove it all, like when I'm using my TATCHA One Step Camellia Cleansing Oil. I'll now make sure to always remove it properly, and follow up with another cleanser (currently the Elemental Herbology Purify & Soothe) when I'm wearing make-up and sunscreen... and really throw that cloth in the wash when I'm done with it.

2. Toning. Incorporating an exfoliating toner into my routine has probably been one of the best things I've ever done for my skin. But, I'd fallen a bit behind since I first started using my Mario Badescu Glycolic Acid Toner; Caroline suggests using one twice a day, morning and night, but due to some dryness and irritation, I'd been using it only at night. I now think that maybe I actually wasn't nourishing my skin enough afterwards, and also I might be sensitive to the grapefruit extract in the product (which is why I'll be replacing it with another acid toner in the near future). In the mornings, I've now started to mix a little bit of the MB Glycolic Acid Toner with some of the La Roche-Posay Physiological Soothing Toner, and I have to say my skin is now brighter, evened out and much less congested, without the redness I was getting previously.

3. Hydrating serum. Well... I just didn't always apply a serum, to be perfectly honest. If I was using the Murad Pigment Lightening Serum at night, I'd skip it for fear of the serum interfering with the efficacy of the lightening product. In the mornings, I'd skip it for fear of getting shiny too quickly and overloading my skin. Yet, I was still getting dry patches and flakes. Now, I've started to use this Bioderma Hydrabio Serum Moisturizing Concentrate for Very Dehydrated Sensitive Skin every morning, and I layer it over the Murad hyperpigmentation treatment at night, or alternate them every other day. So far, no flakes!

4. Facial massage. Following Caroline's recommendation, I got this little facial massager from The Body Shop, and use it in the evenings with my second cleanser. I haven't noticed any results from it quite yet, but it's quite fun and pleasant to use - the knobbly bits really feel like they're doing something extra compared to just massaging your skin with a cleanser in circular motions with your hands. I'm hoping the massage will help drain some of the toxins causing deep breakouts on my neck, jawline and chin.

5. Supplements. I've been taking fish oil capsules on and off for about a year now, but now I'm trying to step up my game and make sure I'm taking it every single day. Another supplement I'd like to try in the near future is quercetin, which Caroline recommended for acne-prone skin. From what I've gathered, quercetin is a natural, plant-derived antioxidant that may help with inflammation as well as allergies; in fact, some people call it 'the natural anti-histamine'. I'm planning on getting the Quercetin & Bromelain capsules from Vitacost (referral link) next time I place an order.

6. Other tweaks. I used to always apply my eye cream as the last step in my routine; however, even small amounts of serum or moisturizer may prevent it from being absorbed fully, thus making it less efficient. Now I try to make sure I whack it on as the very first step. I also focus on bringing my skincare down onto my neck; because firstly, I do get some breakouts just under my jawline that could use some exfoliating, and secondly because I want to ensure it's getting some anti-aging action - nobody wants a smooth, unwrinkled face and a lined, sagging neck! I've also kind of gotten away from using spot treatments - I feel like they weren't helping much to actually heal the spot, they were just making the area dry and flaky. Now when I see a spot coming up, I smear some tamanu oil on it to soothe the angry offender.

That's it for now; obviously, my skincare routine is ALWAYS a work in progress, so I'll be introducing more changes in the future, especially by way of replacing some products here and there. I still need to find some good exfoliating toner options to alternate (I'm thinking of trying REN's Clarifying Toning Lotion and First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads, which are currently on their way to me!), as well as a lighter cream/milk cleanser to use in the mornigs (maybe REN's Evercalm Gentle Cleansing Milk, or Anthony Logistics for Men Glycolic Facial Cleanser?). I'll definitely review new products as I try them, well if they're worth mentioning anyway.

Have you introduced any changes into your skincare routine recently?